FRANCE: The charm of the Normandy Countryside

We had spent a full day at the Normandy Landing Beaches, which was not long enough to really understand the full impact of the D-Day invasion and the significance it had on the outcome of World War II. Visiting the American Cemetery, as well as the British and Canadian Cemeteries, made us realize the immense toll it took on all the Allied forces.

The following day, after a wonderful morning exploring the grounds of Chateau de Canisy, we were off to Mont Saint Michele, a rocky islet topped by a famous Gothic abbey, off the coast of Normandy, by the English Channel. As we drove up to the island it was very exciting seeing the abbey for the first time. I had seen pictures of the abbey so many times I felt I had been there. Like seeing Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria, after visiting Cinderella’s Castle at Disneyland, seeing the real thing is thrilling.

Mont Saint Michele was first connected to the mainland by a thin natural bridge, which, before modernization, was covered at high tide and revealed at low tide. Mont Saint Michele was unique, an island half the time and attached to land the other half --- a tidal island. Due to the canalization of the Couesnon River, the island, located approximately three miles from shore during the Middle Ages, is now connected to land by a causeway. There are still tidal conditions and the parking lot does fill with water certain times of the month. Our bus had to move to a different location by 8:00pm so as not to get caught by the rising tide.

We wound our way by foot up to the abbey along a cobblestone street lined with restaurants and souvenir shops. It’s uphill all the way, but worth every huff and puff to reach the top. The abbey of Mont Saint Michele is an architectural masterpiece built in the 13th century, replacing the original abbey, which was founded in 708 by Saint Aubert, bishop of Avranches, but destroyed by King Philip II of France in 1203.

Even though the island was able to withstand repeated English assaults during the Hundred Years’ War, it lost its popularity and prestige during the Reformation and, by the time of the French Revolution, there were scarcely any monks in residence. The abbey was closed and converted into a prison during Napoleon’s reign. Restored after 1863, and connected to the mainland by a causeway, the abbey is preserved as a national historical monument and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. .

Whatever direction we drove, the Normandy countryside is bucolic with large areas of pastureland, charming villages and a dramatic coastline. To my delight, the weather was fabulous: blue skies, no rain, and ideal with a light jacket to keep the chill off.

On our last day in Normandy we headed for Honfleur, a picturesque village on the estuary of the Seine River, opposite the port of La Harve. I can definitely see why artists are attracted to Honfleur ---- it’s a picture postcard. We wandered through the narrow, cobblestone streets, visited Saint Catherine’s Church (built entirely out of wood by local ships’ carpenters to celebrate the departure of the English after the Hundred Years’ War) and finally stopped for lunch at one of the many restaurants that line the harbor area. It was a perfect day to sit outside, with a glass of wine, and people watch.

No trip to Normandy would be complete without a trip to Bayeux, famous for the nine centuries old Bayeux Tapestry that depicts the story of the quarrel between William, Duke of Normandy (William the Conqueror), and King Harold of England, and the subsequent events which led to Harold’s defeat at the Battle of Hastings in 1066.

The renowned tapestry, actually, an embroidery, is 203 feet in length and about a foot in height, not at all what I expected. It is a wonderful rendering of the decisive events in the history of England.

It was hard leaving the Chateau. The food and the service were fabulous --- we had been totally spoiled for four days. We said our goodbyes and headed for Paris to catch the high-speed train to Dijon. That was my first time aboard the TGV and it was great: modern, smooth and fast. In two hours we were in Dijon.