INDOCHINA: Bangkok

We arrived in Bangkok in the early evening, the last stop on our three-week journey through Indochina. I had been to Bangkok more than 30 ago and I was interested to see how much the city has changed.
Like most of the cities we visited on this trip, the changes could be measured by the prosperity of the country - better highways, cranes dotting the skyline for the ongoing building boom, and a growing infrastructure including hotels, restaurants and mass transportation, to accommodate the influx of tourists from around the world. In the case of Indochina, as the countries prospered, so did its citizens - better living conditions, education, cars, motor scooters; all are signs of prosperity.

Bangkok has it all. The telltale signs of prosperity: traffic congestion, road construction and building construction, plus a 100 percent increase in tourism over the past 10 years.

The following morning we set out for a day of sightseeing. Our first stop, the Grand Palace, is the city's most famous landmark. Built in 1782 as the home of the Thai king, it was the royal court and the administrative seat of government for more than 150 years. The kings stopped living in the palace in the early 1900s, but the palace complex is still used for ceremonial events.

Within the palace complex are several temples, including Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), which contains the small and greatly revered Emerald Buddha that dates back to the 14th century. The robes on the Buddha are changed with the seasons by the king of Thailand and is an important ritual in the Buddhist calendar.

Another "must see" within the palace complex is Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha). The largest temple in Bangkok, Wat Pho is most famous for its huge and very majestic reclining Buddha. Talk about making a statement - the Reclining Buddha measures 151 feet long and is covered in gold leaf.

A fitting end to our morning at the Grand Palace was a Thai massage. The traditional Thai massage is more invigorating than relaxing and is supposed to release stress and improve blood circulation. Personally, I prefer the Swedish massage, but it was fun going as a group and listening to the laughs and the moans as the masseuse applied "gentle" pressure in order to relieve muscle and joint tension.

No trip to Bangkok would be complete without a visit to a floating market. Much of Bangkok's history has evolved along the banks of the Chao Praya River. Winding its way through the heart of Bangkok, it continues to play an important part in the daily life of many Bangkok residents. People commute to work on fast-moving river taxis, tourists enjoy the more leisurely pace of sightseeing boats and commerce is ever present as long barges pull heavy loads up and down the river. Our hotel, the Mandarin Oriental (absolutely fabulous), was on the river's edge, which provided great views of all the activity on the river below from our rooms.

There are several floating markets in and around the Bangkok area. When I was in Bangkok 30 years ago the markets were used by the locals to buy fresh fruits and vegetables. Today, the floating markets are more of a tourist attraction, though they still provide an array of fresh fruits and vegetables along with clothing, handicrafts, lots of souvenirs, spices, special fruit drinks, etc. Because of the large increase in tourism, the market has moved to dry land - it's the tourists that come in boats! The best part of the morning was the boat ride through the network of narrow canals that are lined with old wooden houses and pots of colorful flowers. In these neighborhoods, visiting your neighbor "down the road" means getting into your boat parked next to your house.

Other than the floating markets, there is truly wonderful shopping in Bangkok: shopping malls, bazaars and night markets all selling beautiful textiles, handicrafts, antiques, clothing and food from around the world. According to our guide, Chakritt, you can actually find "great bargains" if you're adept at bargaining.

There really is a lot to do and see in Bangkok. I only touched on the touristy parts, but there is so much more to see - all you need is time.

We had a wonderful farewell dinner at the Mandarin Oriental's Riverside Terrace Restaurant. The cliché about time flying has a ring of truth. It was hard to believe we had been on the road for three weeks. Hong Kong was wonderful and we had a great time watching tourists and locals alike celebrating the Year of the Pig. Hanoi, with its chaotic traffic, European architecture and good food was a wonderful introduction to Vietnam. Ha Long Bay, with its spectacular seascape of limestone pillars; Hue with its many tombs and old Imperial City; Hoi An, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a distinct Chinese influence and great shopping; Saigon, with it's "millions" of motor scooters and the unforgettable visit to the Cu Che Tunnels; Cambodia and the magnificent temple complex at Angkor Wat; and finally Bangkok, a large, growing city with a royal heritage.

Even though tourism throughout Indochina is on the increase, it still has not been a focus for many Americans. There is so much to see and appreciate. I would like to think I have portrayed a different view of Indochina in my series on Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand. If you're looking for an exotic vacation, definitely consider a trip to Indochina.