ECUADOR#2: Amazon Rain Forest cont'd

I am continuing my blog on a trip I took to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands in August, 2005, with my daughter, Heather (before she was married,) and 99 other friends and listeners of KFI’s Bill Handel. Being on a Bill Handel trip is a kick--full of laughter, fun, and gossip.

We all made it through our first night at Sacha Lodge. Getting there was definitely half the fun--a flight from Quito to Coca, a two and 1/2-hour trip down the Napo River in a motorized dug-out canoe, a walk through the rain forest from the first landing to the second landing where we boarded another dug-out canoe and finally arrived at Sacha Lodge.


We were divided into groups of six, each with our own native guide and naturalist guide. Regardless of the group itinerary for the day, we were up at sunrise in order to take advantage of the cool mornings when the animals are most active. We did a lot of hiking and when it got too hot we jumped in the lake to cool off. Heather, a city girl at heart, took one look at the dark waters and refused to swim in any water that was home to piranhas and caiman. (Caimans are carnivorous relatives of the alligator. There are several species in the Amazon.) She did do her share of hiking and climbing, but swimming was definitely not her thing.

We had a fabulous time. Several of us went out on the lake with fishing poles and managed to catch some piranha, which we barbecued for dinner the last night at the lodge. I find piranha much too boney to eat, but from what little taste I had the seasoning was good and I was told it was delicious.

In the late afternoon on our second day at the lodge our group gathered for our afternoon hike, a medicinal hike through the surrounding rain forest. Our native guide explained the healing powers of several of the plants and trees and how they are used by the local tribes. It was absolutely fascinating.

One of my least favorite activities at the lodge was the expedition to the canopy walk. The 940-foot-long canopy walk is approximately 100 feet off the ground and is reached by a sturdy stairway that is fixed to the ground with metal towers for stability. I actually enjoyed the hike from the lodge to the tower and even the climb up was a piece of cake. However, the canopy walk was a real challenge to my acrophobia.

Similar to those in Costa Rica, the bridge has a slight swing and to say I was “not a happy camper” is an understatement. It also didn’t help that the “kids” group came running up and thought it was a real hoot to make the bridge swing. I did manage to get out on the bridge (for a quick look) and the view from top was magnificent. Lots of birds and some howler monkeys not easily spotted from the ground.

Sacha Lodge also has its own butterfly farm with an experimental breeding program started several years ago. Designed as a live exhibition conservatory, the Butterfly House is now successfully breeding nearly 45 local butterfly species.

The last night at the lodge we went out on a caiman hunt. I’m not sure who was more frightened, Barbara Handel, Pamela Handel, or Heather Cox. All were clutching the sides of the canoe, but braved the dark waters in search of the beady red eyes, the telltale sign that a caiman has been sighted. Our first paddle around the lake proved fruitless, however, the second time around we caught the red eyes in the glare of the flashlight.

A six-foot caiman was just slithering into the water, paralyzed for a moment as five flashlights blinded the poor devil. After seeing the caiman up close and personal, we all followed Heather back to the lodge; none of us wanted to take a dip to cool off!!!

As much as we enjoyed the rain forest and Sacha Lodge, it was time to return to civilization. We arrived into Quito in the early afternoon. I must say the air-conditioning at the Marriott felt wonderful and the massage I had scheduled, before leaving for the rain forest, felt absolutely decadent. I will admit, I love the outdoors, but I also like to be pampered.

I met up with Marjorie Handel just as she returned to the Marriott Hotel from her three days at La Mirage Garden Hotel and Spa, a resort one hour north of Quito. Marjorie was still recovering from lung surgery at that time and had decided that the rain forest experience was far too hectic and she needed three days of relaxation before going on to the Galapagos Islands. La Mirage was the perfect choice.

According to Marjorie, La Mirage is the best spa she has ever been to. The food was absolutely wonderful and the service was impeccable--not only did they light the fireplace in her room every night, but they also put hot water bottles in the bed to warm the sheets (August is the middle of winter in Ecuador). The spa treatments were wonderful and included a choice of 17 types of massages and treatments. The atmosphere of the spa and the entire resort, exuded calmness and relaxation.

I enjoyed the quietness of the afternoon. The rest of the group--51 more people, including Bill Handel, were due into Quito that evening. My time for relaxation was coming to an end. Join me next week as we explore colonial Quito and visit the Equatorial Monument and Museum.

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