Day nine. We were on deck early, as we passed through Neptune’s Bellows, the narrow, shallow channel concealing the entrance into Deception Island. Once a haven for whaling ships and international research stations, it is now a haven for tourists wanting to take a dip in the thermal waters.Deception Island is actually the sunken caldera of a semi-active volcano. In the early 1920’s, the volcanic eruptions caused considerable damage to the whaling station when the water in the harbor boiled and stripped the paint off the ships’ hulls. Between 1967 and 1969, volcanic activity on the island completely wiped out both the Chilean and British research stations. The most recent eruption was in 1992. Today, there are no human inhabitants on the island, only large colonies of Chinstrap Penguins on the exterior coast.
We sailed past sheer cliffs streaked with varied hues of red, black and gold, into the harbor surrounded by snow-capped peaks. The morning was overcast and the temperature outside was a cool 42 degrees; the water temperature, a very cold 38 degrees.
The zodiacs were lowered into the water and the staff was literally giddy at the prospect of soaking in the thermal waters. Since we were the late group for this landing, I decided to wait and hear the tales from the returning passengers.
Everyone returning raved, just like being at a first class spa. I was still skeptical, but several members of our group donned bathing suits and headed for Pendulum Cove. I donned my same Michelin Man look and my camera and headed off with them. According to the group, once you found the “right spot,” and mixed the incoming cold water with the hot thermal waters, it was truly wonderful. Even though I didn’t take the plunge, I did tiptoe in and was surprised how hot the sand felt between my toes.
While the others were relaxing in the thermal waters, I walked up the hill to what remained of the Chilean research station. The twisted steel and the burnt out shell of a boat tells the story of a hurried evacuation. Along the shoreline you can still see numerous whalebones partially submerged in the volcanic cinder and the burnt frame of an old whaling station.Back on the ship, toasty warm and thoroughly relaxed from soaking in the warm waters of Pendulum Cove, the group headed for the Veranda Lounge for a congratulatory drink, and to finish their scrabble game. We left Deception Island in the early afternoon and headed due north toward the Drake Passage. The waters were calm, and I was hoping they would stay that way.
Unfortunately, the waters did not stay calm very long. Once we neared the Antarctic Convergence (where the warm waters from the north meet the cold waters from the south) the water was choppy and the ship was rocking. I immediately headed for my cabin. First a new patch (medication), second I put on the wristbands, and third I gulped down a Dramamine, just to be sure. By early evening the sign on the purser’s desk read: Moderate and heavy swells. Please hold onto the banisters as you progress down the halls and stairs. I had to laugh; the British certainly have a way with words. Walking was difficult at best, almost impossible if you couldn’t hold onto the banisters or walls.
The seas remained rough and I was told we had 29-foot swells. I marveled at the waiters as they “walked” across the dining room carrying heavy trays. More than once through dinner a wine glass tipped or a plate slid half way across the table.
The rocking and rolling continued the following day as we crossed the “dreaded Drake.” I was beginning to understand how early Antarctic explorers felt as they sailed the Southern oceans in their quest to reach the South Pole. I still can’t believe Shackleton and four other men actually crossed from Elephant Island to South Georgia Island in a rowboat, in a storm, and lived to tell about it. And without a “ patch” or wristbands!
A feeling of melancholy settled over the group. No one wanted the trip to end. The scenery was spectacular, far beyond any of our expectations. And the penguins were absolutely delightful. Going to the Penguin Encounter at Sea World will never be the same. Even Elephant seals, with a face only a mother could love, have a special place in my heart.
Day 10. We woke up to the announcement that land had been sighted; we were approaching the infamous Cape Horn. I was amazed how much calmer the water was. The lecturer the previous evening had talked about gale force winds and 65 foot waves that had “done in” many a ship that attempted to round the Cape going from the Atlantic waters to the Pacific waters. It was a beautiful morning: blue skies, calm waters, with only a slight breeze in the air. The guide on deck said that was the first clear sighting of Cape Horn that season; it’s usually surrounded by a fog layer and impossible to see. I had read and heard about all the devastation associated with ships sailing around the Cape, it was hard to believe we were talking about the same Cape Horn.We arrived back in Ushuaia in the late afternoon and walked into town for some last minute shopping.
Packing became a real challenge --- where to put the red parka in an already full suitcase! The group was heading to Buenos Aires and the temperature was in the mid-80s.I accompanied my group to the airport and said a tearful goodbye. I was staying on in Ushuaia to meet my next group. As the new group came through customs, their first question was, how was the Drake Passage? I only smiled….
Contact me at Redlands Travel Service for information about Bill Handel's trip over the winter holidays in 2009/2010:
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