PORTUGAL #1: The Charm of Portugal

It has been many years since I visited Portugal and the charm of the country had left an indelible impression on me. With all my other travels, I never managed to find time to go back, until this past October when Uniworld, a company specializing in river cruising, offered a cruise through the Douro Valley in northern Portugal, from Porto to Salamanca in Spain. It was perfect, my last trip I spent most of my time in the Algarve, the beautiful beach area of southern Portugal.

I flew nonstop from Newark, New Jersey (I had to see my new granddaughter who lives in Pissaic Park, New Jersey,) into Lisbon and met my friends Carolyn Groves and Jerry and Debbie Baker, who had flown in from Los Angeles. The rest of the group was not arriving for a few days and the extra days gave me an opportunity to reacquaint myself with the city. The cobblestone streets and old neighborhoods are still there, along with new high-rise buildings and major shopping centers. Lisbon is growing and becoming a modern metropolis. Built on seven hills, along the sloping banks of the Tagas River, Lisbon has a special feel all it’s own.

The capital of Portugal since its conquest from the Moors in 1147, Lisbon is a legendary city with over 20 centuries of history. At one point, it was one of the most important capitals in the world, when the Portuguese owned the seas, circumnavigating the globe and opening the world up to trade.

Once the group arrived we were off at a hectic pace. We started our morning in the historic district of Belem. Our first stop, Belem Tower, a fortress built in the 16th century to keep careful watch over the great navigators who left Portugal to seek their fortunes elsewhere.
Close by the Tower is the Monument of the Discovers, built in honor of Henry the Navigator, considered a primary pioneer of the exploration of the oceans. Next on our itinerary was The Royal Coach Museum, but we got waylaid by the delicious smell of Portuguese pastries from a cafe across the street.

One of the typical pastries from Portugal is the Pastel de Nata, a custard cup with a crisp, golden topping. It was wonderful and definitely worth the stop.We walked across to the museum, housed in the old Horse Riding Arena of the Balem Palace. Created in 1905 by Queen Amelia, the museum houses an extensive collection of carriages belonging to the Portuguese Royal Family and nobility.
It was interesting to see the development of carriages from the 16th century through the 19th century. The changes, particularly in comfort, were dramatic.

Continuing our exploration of the Belem district, our next stop was the Monastery of Jeronimos (also known as the Hieryonimites’ Monastery), a masterpiece of Manueline architecture and, along with the Tower of Belem, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Built during the 16th century, the Monastery is beautifully decorated with sculptures, Gothic scroll work and intricate designs.Our stomachs were telling us it was lunchtime, but Pilar, our guide, insisted we take a stroll through the Alfama district, the oldest district in Lisbon. Walking through this Moorish neighborhood is definitely a step back in time. It is actually a village within a city made up of narrow streets, tiny squares, small mom and pop shops, churches, and whitewashed houses with wrought-iron balconies adorned with pots of flowers, drying laundry, and caged birds. Picturesque is the best way to describe Alfama. I’m glad we didn’t miss it.
Our last stop of the day was the Rossio, the liveliest square in the city, where people stop to sit and relax, have a drink or lunch at one of the many outdoor cafes surrounding the square. And that’s exactly what we did.We had lunch at the CafĂ© Nicola and did some serious people watching. The square is full of entertainers and people wanting to be noticed. I can see why it’s called the liveliest square in Lisbon. It was a fun but exhausting day --- it’s hard playing tourist!

The day wasn’t over yet. Part of the fun of traveling is eating the local cuisine and trying new foods. If you enjoy seafood, Portugal is the place for you. Fish is served every which way--grilled, boiled,poached, fried, stewed and roasted.Restaurants in Lisbon abound from the traditional Portuguese cuisine to international fare, from the very high-end to the small, family run restaurants. Almost all the restaurants we selected were a la carte; you are charged per dish. Also, when they serve the bread, and special cheeses, it is not part of the meal, you are charged.

The happening place in Lisbon is Barrio Alto, for both locals and tourists. Behind colorful and graffiti-ridden facades, off alleyways and cobblestone lanes, are a variety of excellent traditional and international restaurants, bars and nightclubs.
Another fun area to go for dinner is the Alcantara, the principle pier of Lisbon, with an abundance of restaurants (mostly seafood), bars, discos and pubs. We were there on a weeknight and I was amazed at the crowds. It’s definitely a popular place.

Lisbon was fun--a great city to walk and explore. Three days was not enough to see and do everything I had originally planned. I guess that makes for a good reason to go back.

Join me next week as we leave the city for a day trip to Sintra, Cascais and Estoril.

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