PORTUGAL #2: Sintra, A Medieval Town in a Romantic Setting

This is the second article on my trip to Portugal this past October.

After spending two days in Lisbon we took a tour outside the city to see the surrounding countryside and visit the towns of Sintra and Cascais and drive along the Estoril coastline.Sintra is a small town that dates back to medieval times, but has a sound footing in the 21st. century. Narrow streets lined with small boutiques, gift shops and outdoor cafes add to the allure along with wonderful palaces and castles that give the town a fairy tale-like feeling.In the center of town, in the main square, is the National Palace, dating from the 14th century. Its two gigantic conical chimneys are the town's most recognizable landmarks.
Originally built under Moorish rule for sultans spending summers in the temperate climate surrounding Sintra, the palace has been remodeled and altered by successive residents. Though predominantly Manueline and Gothic in architecture, the original Arab style still prevails in some parts of the building. Inside, the labyrinth of rooms are unique and possess what is said to be the most extensive collection of Mudejar Azulejos (colored glazed tiles) in the world.

But the most famous building in Sintra is Pena Palace, an extravagant yet relatively modern building, erected in the 19th century in accordance with the whims and romantic fantasies of Ferdinand de Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, the German husband of the then Queen Maria II.A true mixture of styles (Renaissance, Baroque, Moorish, Gothic and Manueline) adorn this enormous construction which occupies the site of a 16th century Hieronymite monastery, proudly sitting atop the hill with a wonderful panorama of Sintra, the valley below and the Atlantic Ocean.

The outside looks like a castle in Disneyland with its pink and yellow towers and domes, drawbridges, sculptures and detail that one can only imagine exist in fantasy.Inside has been kept very much as it was left by its last royal occupant, Queen Amélia, who, fearing the inevitable downfall of the monarchy in Portugal, fled the palace and the country in 1910.

We took a tram to the top and walked around the outside in utter amazement. We couldn’t wait to see the inside. The extravagant interior is decorated in late Victorian and Edwardian furnishings, rich ornaments, paintings, and priceless porcelain preserved just as the royal family left them.

Surrounding the palace is the mystical Pena Park, filled with a variety of trees and exotic plants from the former colonies of the Portuguese empire, ponds, fountains, and black swans. There is also a charming lodge hidden among the trees that can be visited. Pena Palace is unbelievable and not to be missed if you’re traveling to Portugal.

We drove from Sintra to the seaside resort of Cascais. A former fishing village, Cascais gained fame as a resort for Portugal's royal family in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. Nowadays it is a popular vacation spot for both Portuguese and foreign tourists.The town is a typical resort area with lots of hotels, tourist apartments, restaurants and shops.We found a cute outdoor cafe for lunch and enjoyed a wonderful assortment of fresh shellfish along with a great bottle of wine.We drove back to Lisbon along the Estoril coast with its beautiful white, sandy beaches and the beautiful blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean. We made several stops along the way as our guide pointed out Cabo da Roca, Europe’s Western most point and the Estoril Casino and Gardens, the largest casino in Europe (according to our guide). It had been a most enjoyable day.

Join me next week as we leave Lisbon for Porto (Oporto), home of some of the finest Port wine houses in all of Europe, and where we board our small ship as it makes its way north along the River Douro through the magnificent wine growing region of Northern Portugal.

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