FRANCE: Barging through Burgundy #1

We had four wonderful days in Normandy and believe me, no one wanted to leave the Chateau . It really is a fairytale castle and a fun “home base” when traveling in the Normandy area.

We traveled to Paris and did a short city tour prior to catching the train to Dijon for our barge trip down the Burgundy Canal. I hadn’t been to Paris for many years. My memories of trying to drive around the Arc de Triumph came flashing back and I immediately broke out in a cold sweat. Actually, once you park your car in Paris, you are fine and I was looking forward to spending the weekend in Paris after the barge trip.

The TVG high-speed train was terrific; very modern and quite comfortable. And fast --- we were in Dijon in an hour and forty minutes. Madelaine met us at the station in Dijon and from the very beginning won our hearts. She is absolutely charming with the most delightful French accent. Madelaine wore many hats, but her main job was that of bus driver, historian and guide. Madelaine followed the barge and when it was time for an excursion, history lessons or wine tasting, there was Madelaine with her ever-friendly smile.

I will admit, when I first saw the Litote, I was a bit apprehensive. I had never been on a barge before and I didn’t know quite what to expect. It was smaller than I anticipated, but once you understand the logistics of going through locks (47 on our section of the canal), you understand why the sizes of barges on the Burgundy Canal vary very little.

The staff greeted us enthusiastically and invited us into “the living room” for a glass of champagne and to meet the crew. Talk about feeling old! I think the oldest crewmember may have been 30, and that’s stretching it!!
Even the chef, with his credentials from a prestigious cooking school in Paris, was in his late 20s. Its obvious that age has nothing to do with service, nor the preparation of fabulous meals. Everything was beyond wonderful. I’m getting ahead of my story.

Once the staff was introduced and our itinerary discussed, we were shown to our rooms. I think the only adjectives that truly fit are small, compact and quaint. Because of the locks, barges are restricted to a certain length--- the only way to get larger rooms are to have fewer cabins. In all honesty, the size of the cabins was more than adequate and the shower in the bathroom was great, equaling that of showers of any cruise ship I have been on before. Maybe not as large, but equally as good.

Once the introductions were over the barge started down the canal toward the small village of Plombieres, where we docked for the night. It was wonderful. The trees were veiled in their fall colors and hues of red, yellow and gold stood out against the bright blue sky. Several of us got off the barge after the first lock and walked past three more locks --- and had to wait for the barge to catch up. I do everything at hyper speed --- I’m definitely a type A personality. This was a new and enjoyable experience.

Dinners on the barge were a pure joy. All the meals were good, but dinners were wonderful, fun and educational. The chef was always present to tell us the dinner menu as we sat down at tables laden with china, crystal and freshly cut flowers. Then came the wine expert (we got to know Sophie very well) to talk about the selected wines, all from the Burgundy region, and how they complimented each course. At the end of the meals came the “cheese connoisseur,” usually Chelsea, to explain our cheese selection, always three and always mile to strong and all from the Burgundy region. Hey, I said dinner was educational. If you need help choosing the right type of cheeses, from mild to stinky, give me a call!!!

Our fist excursion was to the Chateau Clos de Vougeot, a monastic winery dating from medieval times and the present headquarters of the Brotherhood of Knights of the Vine. These people are very serious about their wines. According to the young man who guided us through the buildings with beautiful old, but still functioning, wine presses and sellers, the monks from the local abbey actually worked the vineyards from the 12thCentury until their confiscation in 1790 during the French Revolution. The Cistercian monks, in the early 12th Century, held international gatherings at the chateau to promote peaceful relationships and mutual understanding among the people growing the vines. Eight centuries later the same Clos de Vougeot has become a focal point of modern day Chevaliers. The Chateau du Clos de Vougeot, totally renovated and modernized, is now designated as a French historical monument and holds yearly conferences for Chevaliers from around the world.

We returned to the barge for lunch, another glorious meal, and set “sail” for the village of Fleurey de Ouche, a traditional French village with charming old houses. After lunch several of set out on bicycles and followed the towpath along the canal. Exploring the village on bikes was fun, plus the exercise helped work off the calories from lunch!!!!