FRANCE: Barging through Burgundy #2

This article is a continuation of my barge trip down the Burgundy Canal this past October. The weather was glorious, the food fabulous and the company wonderful. All of us had traveled together before and it’s particularly nice when you’re traveling to new and fun places to be surrounded by friends. Barging is perfect when you have a variety of age groups since there is as much, or as little, activity as you want. The more active in the group took off on bikes, enjoying the villages and the countryside, and getting some great exercise. Others walked along the towpath between locks and into the nearby villages. Barging really is a great way to see the countryside. Personally, I loved it and have never felt more relaxed.

It was our third day on the barge and we were entering the Valley d’ Ouche, the moist scenic section of the canal. No cars, no congestion, just wooded forests and rich pastureland as far as the eye could see. I had read about hot-air ballooning in the area and when we first got on the barge I had asked if there was a company nearby. As you can see from the pictures, the answer was yes. I had only been hot air ballooning once before, in Turkey, and it was fabulous. Even though it was a foggy morning, the owner of the balloon company, Air Escargot, felt it was a good morning to go up and that the fog would burn off. He was partially right. The fog never really burned off, but it was a magical experience. As we lifted out of the fog we floated across the valley. Villages, shrouded in layers of mist, looked surreal. It was a wonderful balloon experience, even if we couldn’t see the vineyards below.

We moored near the village of Gissey sur Ouche and met Madeline, our wonderful historian and motor coach driver, for an excursion to Meursault, famous for its white wine. As we toured the vineyards Madeline explained that the soil throughout most of Meursault, a mixture of chalk and marl, is perfectly suited to the production of chardonnay. The soil mixture, combined with a largely east or southeast exposure, creates healthy grapes that are “full of character” and produce wonderful Village or Premier Cru, wines. I’m definitely not a wine connoisseur, but I do enjoy a glass of Chardonnay and I was happy to hear the chardonnay grapes had character!!!

On Tuesday morning, after an early breakfast, we boarded our “carriage” and headed to Dijon for market day. I actually wanted to follow Raoul, our chef, through the market, but Madeline had her historian hat on and took us on a walking tour of Dijon’s historical center. When I think of Dijon I think of mustard, but Dijon actually dates back to Roman times. Over the centuries it became a center for the arts, and because it was never ravaged by war, still retains many buildings and architectural styles that date back to medieval times.

Unfortunately, due to our limited time schedule, we did not have time to visit the Musee des Beaux Arts with its renown collection of European paintings from early Renaissance to the Impressionist periods, nor the Ducal Palace --- both “must sees” when visiting Dijon. That alone is a great incentive to go back.

Like most tourists, I had to buy some Dijon Mustard to bring home for gifts only to find that the mustard seeds are now imported from Canada. I’m told the recipe for Dijon Mustard is held under lock and key in the town vaults, but the mustard is made from seeds grown in Canada.

Back on the Litote, we continued to cruise and climb through the pastoral Valley d’Ouche to the picturesque village of Pont d’Ouche. After lunch we drove to Beaune, the main town in the Cite d’Or wine region and the center of the commercial wine trade. After wine, the city’s main attraction is the Hotel-Dieu, an old hospital turned hospice. Perfectly preserved from the Middle Ages, the Hospices de Beaune Hospital was built in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin, Chancellor of Philippe-le-Bon, Duke of Burgundy.

In the wake of the Hundred Years’ War, Beaune was suffering from poverty and famine. To redeem the situation, the Chancellor and his wife decided to found a Hospice for the Poor. They endowed it with an annual income and commissioned Beaune artisans to complete the project.

The Hotel-Dieu, or Hospice, with its gothic facades and beautifully tiled roof, is today considered a jewel of medieval architecture. From the Middle Ages to the 20th century the Hotel-Dieu was used as a hospital for the poor. In 1971 the actual hospital was closed, but the retirement home, on the hospital grounds, is still functional.

Since Beaune is the wine capital of the area, we could not leave without doing a wine tasting. Apparently the wines from the region are very good since several members of the group brought cases of wine to be shipped home.

Out last day on the boat. We arrived in Vandenesse, a quiet village near the summit of the canal. After lunch we visited the medieval village and castle of Chateauneuf en Auxois, once an outpost of the Dukes of Burgundy. I could see where it would be an important military post ---- from the castle there are spectacular views of the surrounding countryside.

We returned to the Litote for our farewell dinner. Raoul, our chef, outdid himself with salmon baked in a salt crust and the most wonderful Crème Boule I have ever tasted. It’s understandable why no one wanted to leave!
We said our goodbyes to the wonderful crew and headed to the train station in Dijon. The first of the transportation strikes had started the day before, but we managed to get seats on one of the few high-speed trains still traveling to Paris.

The week had been magical. I truly love barging. It’s such a wonderful way to see the countryside up close and personal. I so enjoyed bicycling through the villages and just walking along the towpath. The people, the food, the wine, the location --- all perfect. I highly recommend a barge vacation in France. Hmmm --- I wonder if barging in Holland, England or Germany is the same ---- I’ll just have to find out for myself!