BLACK SEA ADVENTURE with Bill Handel: Sevastopol, Sochi,Trabzon

This article is a continuation of our Black Sea Cruise in July, 2008, on the Regent Seven Seas Navigator. If you are a history buff, particularly World War II and Russian history, the Ukraine is definitely a place you want to visit. Yalta, which earned its place in the history books as the site of the famous Crimean Conference which ended World War II, was wonderful: Bill Handel and Tom Dobbertin, both history enthusiasts, were enthralled with all the pictures and exhibits from the actual conference.

Our next port, Sevastopol, formerly known as Sebastopol, is located on the Black Sea coast of the Crimean, formerly the most important base for the Soviet empire’s Black Sea fleet. Today, it is a Ukrainian naval base and is mutually used by the Ukrainian and Russian navies. It was recently in the news due to the conflict in Georgia.

Sevastopol is known as the “hero city,” so called for its roles in both the Crimean War and World War II. Like almost all the cities on the Black Sea coast, it is located on the site of an ancient Greek colony, Chersonesus, and numerous archaeological fragments of the city have survived. Our first stop on our tour was the ancient city of Chersonesus, founded by the Greeks in 422 B.C.

It always amazes me when going to archeological sites that you can tell so much from so little. Our guide, Theis, was wonderful and in his glory as he pointed out the ruins of the Greek theater, Roman temples, elaborate columns of marble and beautiful mosaics.

We also visited the Archeological Museum with displays of pottery, ceramics, coins and ornaments salvaged from the excavation. Also near the ruins was the recently restored St. Vladimir Cathedral dating back to the 19th century.

We next headed into the city to the Panorama Museum. This historic museum opened in 1905 on the 50th anniversary of the defense of Sevastopol during the Crimean War (1855). I have never, in all my travels, seen anything quite like this museum.

In addition to numerous documents, photos and army relics, the museum houses a magnificent canvas (by Russian battle artist Franz Roubaud,) 377 feet long and 46 feet high, depicting the first main assault of Sevastopol on June 18, 1955 It is so real, it is unbelievable; its circular canvas merges into a 9,630 square-foot relief model. You literally can’t see where the canvas stops and actual objects begin. Amazing.
Unfortunately, because of our choice of tours, we had no time to walk around the modern city of Sevastopol. After World War II Sevastopol was entirely rebuilt and reflects the Russian architecture of the time. Due to its military past, most streets in the city are named after Russian and Soviet military persons.

Sometime during the night we left the Ukraine and docked in Sochi the following morning.

Sochi is a Russian resort city on the Black Sea and has the distinction of being both a summer resort destination with numerous beaches and spas

as well as a popular ski destination in the winter in the Caucasus Mountains. In fact, Sochi will host the 2014 Winter Olympic Games. The city of Sochi is quite lovely with numerous parks and lush green hills that overlook the pebble-strewn beaches that dot the coastline.

Because of its beauty, Joseph Stalin chose this area for his summer dacha (home.)
Set among towering California pine trees (according to our guide) and well hidden from prying eyes and possible artillery attacks from the sea, sits the imposing summer residence of Joseph Stalin.


The dacha, built in 1937, remains nearly as it was during Stalin’s time and even has a life-sized wax figure of him behind his desk.
Today, the dacha is used as a hotel for important state visitors and diplomatic receptions.

As we headed for Trabzon, a Black Sea port in Turkey, I realized our cruise was nearly over. Just a few more ports and we would be in Athens, Greece, the end of the cruise.

Trabzon dates back to Byzantine times and was once the capital of the empire founded in 1204 by Alexius Comnene, a grandson of a Byzantine emperor.

Today, Trabzon is a modern city with lots of churches, museums and shopping.


Taking advantage of the location and wonderful climate, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, founder of the Turkish Republic, had a country home perched high on a hill overlooking the city. However, the highlight for me was the trip up to the Sumela Monastery.

Officially known in Turkish as the Meryem Ana Manastiri, the monastery looks as if it “has been taken from heaven and pasted on the side of a mountain.”

According to our guide, no one has been able to answer the question of how man built such a huge monastery on the side of a mountain with the technology of the 6th century.


The hike up was challenging but worth the steep climb just to see the magnificent frescos.

If you ever have an opportunity to visit Trabzon, and your knees can stand the climb, the Orthodox Monastery complex of Sumela is a must.

Join me as we travel to the Greek Island of Lesvos, do a little ouzo tasting and end our cruise in the beautiful city of Athens.

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