We spent four days in Istanbul playing tourist. Between the palaces, mosques, museums, buying carpets and the Grand Bazaar, it seemed we were constantly on the move. When it came time to board Regent’s Seven Seas Navigator, I was definitely ready for some rest and relaxation.
For my readers who have never been on a Regent cruise (previously, Radisson Seven Seas Cruises)-- it is a wonderful cruise line. Their ships are small, from 350 to 690 passengers, and are all-inclusive (gratuities, food and beverages, including alcoholic beverages, but not shore excursions). The Seven Seas Navigator carries 490 passengers. Also, all the cabins are ocean view and mini-suites, which include a small sitting area, and 95 percent have verandas. As I said, after running around Istanbul for four days, I was delighted to finally board the ship.
We docked in Nessebur, Bulgaria, the following morning. Located on a small peninsula in the Black Sea, Nessebur is one of the oldest towns in Europe, dating back 9,000 years as a fortified Thracian settlement.
Through the centuries it changed alliance and rulers several times before being captured by the Bulgarians in the 7th century. Today it is a popular resort town best known for its old town, picturesque harbor and churches dating back to the 10th century. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.Several tours were offered. I selected the tour that included a guided walk through town plus a bus excursion to a village about 40 minutes outside of Nessebur. The town is absolutely charming with its cobblestone streets, tiny squares and two-story period houses. It’s also very touristy with an abundance of gift shops, souvenir stalls, pubs and restaurants. We stopped at Christ Pantokrator Church (14th century), very ornate and beautifully preserved.
The countryside was beautiful, very green with flowers lining the road. It reminded me of my first trip to Bulgaria many years ago when both Marjorie and I were students. We had driven from Turkey into Bulgaria and were amazed at the differences in the terrain and the beautiful rose bushes lining the highway. The “village” turned out to be one house with a lovely older couple that showed us through their barn, happily demonstrated the old wool-carding machine and invited us in to see their home.
As we left their home several of the village women had lined up on the roadway and were selling handmade crafts. All very charming.
Before returning to Nessebur, we stopped for lunch at a local restaurant. The lunch was wonderful and featured many regional dishes. I loved the fresh yogurt with a mixture of spices from the local mountains, the warm home-baked bread and honey, and fresh berries picked in our honor.
The following morning we docked in Constanta, Romania. As a gift to Bill’s group, we planned a full day trip tour of Bucharest, about a three-hour drive from the port. So often we see only cities, I was happy we had a chance to see the Romanian countryside. Most spectacular were the sunflowers, miles and miles of bright yellow flowers.
As we drove into the city, our guide, Sofi, gave us a brief history of Bucharest and the political situation that plagued Romania for many years. I really knew very little about Romania. I did know that Romania had been part of the Eastern block countries and that the president, Nocolai Ceausescu had been a total dictator. My most vivid recollection was of the documentary shown on American television about the horrible conditions of the orphanages and the near starvation conditions that existed throughout Romania. Hearing about Ceausescu and his political regime through someone who actually lived through it was incredible. I can understand why Ceausescu and his wife were tried and convicted of mass murder and faced a firing squad on December 25, 1989.We took a brief city tour before stopping at Palace of the Parliament, Nicolai Ceausescu’s legacy in Bucharest, the astounding palace he built while his people literally starved. Formerly called the People’s Palace, which at 3.76 million square feet stands as the world’s second largest building after the U.S. Pentagon, it provides an interesting introduction to the dictator’s megalomaniac vision.
When construction started in 1984, Ceausescu intended it to be the headquarters of his government. Today, it houses Romania’s Parliament and serves as an international conference center. Built and furnished exclusively with Romanian materials, the building reflects the work of the country’s best artisans. A guided tour takes visitors through a small section of dazzling rooms, huge halls and quarters used by the Senate (when not in session). The interior is a luxurious display of crystal chandeliers, mosaics, oak paneling, marble, gold leaf, stained-glass windows and floors covered in rich carpets.
Our visit to Bucharest was far too short. Several people in our group had visited Romania before and were astounded at all the high-rise buildings and the amount of traffic on the roads. They also said that Romania has so much more to offer and that a trip through the Carpathian Mountains and Transylvania was a must. Sounds good to me!Join me next week as we continue our cruise in the Black Sea with a visit to Odessa in the Ukraine.
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