AUSTRALIA #5 - Hobart, the Heart of Tasmania

I guess it’s a good sign when you’re not ready to leave a particular city or destination. That’s how I felt about Kangaroo Island; I could have stayed and watched the animals for several more days.

We left Kangaroo Island in the evening with a quick overnight in Adelaide before heading for Tasmania. Actually, the overnight proved useful. From all our hiking and outdoor activity on Kangaroo Island we had a lot of muddy clothes and it was nice to have a washer and dryer in our hotel suite. Not exactly an exciting evening in Adelaide, but it sure is nice to have clean clothes to wear!

It was interesting flying into Hobart. Like California, you are not permitted to bring plants or fruit products into Tasmania, and they are serious about checking both hand and checked luggage. I was glad I took the apples out of my suitcase when I saw the dog sniffing the luggage on the carousel.When I was researching Tasmania I found a hotel in Hobart that sounded absolutely fascinating--the Henry Jones Art Hotel.Standing on Hobart’s waterfront where Europeans first stepped ashore over 200 years ago, stands a row of warehouses dating back to the 1820s that have been transformed into a first-class, unique hotel and shopping area that showcases the work of Tasmania’s finest visual and performing artists. The hotel is a unique combination of antique and the ultra modern.In its prime the building was a jam factory and, in its conversion, lost none of the original charm. It still has some original staircases, brick interior walls and restored machinery along with a new, magnificent all-glass atrium that is used for major hotel functions. It lived up to all the hype--we all loved staying at the hotel.When we arrived in Hobart the weather had turned cool and none of us ventured far from the hotel. There were several seafood restaurants along the waterfront that turned out to be really good. We also discovered that Tasmania produces quite nice wines, particularly their Chardonnay and Riesling due to the cooler climate down south.

The following morning we took off for a full day tour of Port Arthur, the infamous penal colony that became the major center for punishment of convicts who re-offended after their arrival in Australia from Britain in the late 1700s.When you first look at the colony it looks quite tranquil: beautiful old buildings, manicured grounds with lovely gardens, a nice church and several beautiful homes once lived in by the administrative staff. Over the years, convict labor was used to develop the public facilities of the colonies--roads, causeways, churches, courthouses and hospitals. But the guided tour certainly dispelled any notion that this was a “walk in the park” for the convicts incarcerated in Port Arthur. According to our guide, convicts shared deplorable conditions.One convict described the working conditions as inhuman:
We have to work from 14 - 18 hours a day, sometimes up to our knees in cold water, 'til we are ready to sink with fatigue.... The inhuman driver struck one John Smith with a heavy thong.
The first boys' prison was built on Point Puer, two miles across Opossum Bay from Port Arthur. (Puer is the Latin word for boy.) It was for young boys, some as young as nine, like James Lynch, arrested for stealing toys. James Gavagan stole some umbrellas when he was 11 and was sent to Tasmania for seven years. He arrived at Point Puer in 1835. When he turned 17, he was sent to the main prison at Port Arthur. He was released in March, 1842.

The boys were kept away from the main convict area. About 3,500 boys were sent to Point Puer. Like the adults, the boys were given hard work such as stone cutting and construction. There was also a school run by two ex-convicts. There are only a few stones left on the island to mark the site of the boys' prison.Escape from Port Arthur was said to be impossible, often compared to Alcatraz. Some prisoners did try to escape. One prisoner, George "Billy" Hunt, covered himself with a kangaroo skin and tried to escape. The hungry guards on duty tried to shoot him for food. When he saw them pointing their guns, Hunt gave himself up. He was whipped 150 times.

I was glad when the tour was over. It was interesting, and is a significant part of Australian history, but I truly hate hearing about the terrible conditions and treatment the prisoners were subjected to.

On the way back to Hobart we stopped at a cheese factory and tasted some really interesting cheeses. My favorite was the wasabi cheese, strong with a real bite!Gus, our driver, took us on a city tour of Hobart, pointing out the downtown shopping area, the town hall, the large sports arena, the residential areas and other points of interest. Several of us got out and walked back to the hotel, after engaging in some shopping therapy! Actually, we went to a sporting goods store to buy some long johns --the weather report for Cradle Mountain was snow.

Join me next week on our adventures in Cradle Mountain.

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