ECUADOR #1: The Amazon Rain Forest

In August of 2005 I planned a two-week trip to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands as part of our fun and adventure journeys with KFI radio talk show host, Bill Handel. For the next several weeks I will share our experiences as we traveled into the jungles of the Amazon, visited Quito, the capital of Ecuador, and journeyed to the Galapagos Islands, where we came face to face with Blue Footed Boobies, Marine Iguanas and playful sea lions, among other marine mammals and birds indigenous to the Galapagos Islands. On this trip I joined forces with Dr. Carol Walton, a naturalist guide I met in Antarctica,whose area of expertise also includes Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands.

For 49 adventurous souls, including my older daughter Heather, who is not exactly the outdoor type, the first part of the trip started at Sacha Lodge, a rainforest lodge deep in the heart of the Ecuadorian Amazon. We flew from Los Angeles to Quito, Ecuador. The following morning we took a short flight from Quito to Coca, a port town located at the confluence of the Napo and Coca Rivers. Our adventure was just beginning. In Coca we met our guides and boarded motorized canoes for our 50-mile journey down the Napo River, the largest river in Ecuadorian Amazonia, and a direct tributary of the Amazon, about 400 miles downstream. As we floated down river we passed some military posts, a few oil company camps and several Quichua Indian villages. During our “ride” our guide talked about the fauna and flora of the area and pointed out several shorebirds including herons, egrets, kingfishers and ospreys.

Halfway to the lodge the clouds became dark and ominous, and we could actually see the sheets of rain approaching our canoes. Always prepared, the guides quickly passed out ponchos and we sat huddled together as rain and winds battered the canoes. It ended as fast as it began,the skies cleared and rays of sun peaked out from behind the clouds. I kept thinking of the old jungle ride at Disneyland and the elaborate special effects that added authenticity to the surroundings. I really had no doubt we were in the rainforest; I had to laugh at our damp clothes and rain soaked hair. The term, “bad hair day,” took on a whole new meaning.

After two and a half hours we arrived at the first outpost for Sacha Lodge, the beginning of a 5,000-acre private reserve. We were warmly greeted with a welcome sign, porters to carry our luggage and flush toilets. We were happy “campers.”

However, we still weren’t at Sacha Lodge, nor was it just around the corner. We were divided into smaller groups, each with a naturalist guide, and were directed to a raised boardwalk for our first “jungle walk” through the dense rainforest. The rain had cooled the air and it was wonderful walking along the cleared path as our guide pointed out several species of palms and ferns, many familiar to us as common houseplants. We saw lots of Heliconia (a close cousin to the Bird of Paradise) and Bromeliads with their brightly colored flowers.

Overhead we heard the chatter of monkeys and the cries of tropical birds. Once again, I kept seeing images of the jungle ride at Disneyland and waited for more special effects to begin.

The walk took about 30 minutes and ended at Pilchicocha Lake, where small dugout canoes (with paddlers) awaited to take us across the lake to Sacha Lodge; or so our guide said. Half way across the lake, like a mirage, the lodge materialized and I could see happy, smiling faces waving at us from the dock. We had arrived.

After a welcome drink we were shown to our cabins and then invited to the dining room for a snack and orientation. The cabins are wonderful--high thatched roofs with private, shaded terraces overlooking the jungle. The hammock on the terrace is definitely a nice touch. Each cabin is completely screened against insects, has an overhead fan, two double beds and a private bathroom with showers…all the comforts of home.

We were again divided into small groups of six, each with a native guide with expert knowledge of the rainforest’s medicinal and other useful plants, and a bilingual naturalist guide educated in the biology and ecology of the area. We didn’t waste anytime. After dinner that evening we picked up our “rubber boots” and headed out for our first night walk in the rainforest. With flashlights in hand,we followed our guides along the trail and were serenaded by a chorus of frogs and nocturnal insects. On the trail our guides pointed out a Wolf Spider the size of my hand, a pit viper on an overhead branch (even our guide was excited and took lots of pictures),
several species of frogs and some insects that looked nasty, but were actually quite harmless. I’m definitely not one for creepy-crawlies, but I loved the walk and was amazed at how alive the jungle is at night. Heather, who had joined our walk along with Pamela and Barbara Handel,were definitely not as thrilled as I was. Barbara Handel is totally adverse to spiders and insects and was really freaked by the Wolf Spider. Both girls never left Heather out of their sight.

The following morning our wake-up call (actually a knock on our cabin door by our guide) was at 6:00 a.m., in order to take advantage of the cool morning hours when the rainforest’s animals are most active. Each group has a different itinerary. That first morning our group headed for the Atne Yasuni Parrot Lick. We retraced our steps from the previous day: we crossed the lake by canoe, walked the 30minutes through the rainforest and boarded a motorized canoe for the half-hour ride to Yasuni National Park. According to our guide, the parrot lick is an exposed clay bank where several different species of parrots gather in the early morning hours.

The parrots eat the clay, which acts as a sort of “antacid,” and helps get rid of the toxic and acid fruits that are a large part of the parrot’s diet. This activity is strictly weather permitting and we were lucky to have no rain. Apparently, parrots don’t like the rain anymore than humans and won’t come “out to play,” or at least won’t go to the parrot lick.

We were back at the lodge by 11:00 a.m., and met in the lounge area to talk about our afternoon activity-- a climb up a 135-foot observation tower. I decided a nap after lunch was a must; I needed all my strength to make the climb.
We crossed the lake in our canoes and headed into a swampy area filled with moss-covered trees and lots of hanging vines. Howler monkeys screeched overhead. It was eerie and beautiful at the same time. We disembarked and walked through the rainforest to the observation tower, built around a giant kapok tree. Round and round, up and up we climbed until we were above the rainforest canopy. The view was magnificent. Our guide pointed out a family of Wooley monkeys, a black and yellow striped Toucan and several other species of birds. The view was well worth the climb.

Back at the lodge the groups met over dinner and shared our adventures. It had been an active day and by 9:00 p.m. we were all ready for bed. Tomorrow morning’s wake-up call was 6:00 a.m. Join me next week for more fun-filled adventures at Sacha Lodge.

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ECUADOR#2: Amazon Rain Forest cont'd

I am continuing my blog on a trip I took to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands in August, 2005, with my daughter, Heather (before she was married,) and 99 other friends and listeners of KFI’s Bill Handel. Being on a Bill Handel trip is a kick--full of laughter, fun, and gossip.

We all made it through our first night at Sacha Lodge. Getting there was definitely half the fun--a flight from Quito to Coca, a two and 1/2-hour trip down the Napo River in a motorized dug-out canoe, a walk through the rain forest from the first landing to the second landing where we boarded another dug-out canoe and finally arrived at Sacha Lodge.


We were divided into groups of six, each with our own native guide and naturalist guide. Regardless of the group itinerary for the day, we were up at sunrise in order to take advantage of the cool mornings when the animals are most active. We did a lot of hiking and when it got too hot we jumped in the lake to cool off. Heather, a city girl at heart, took one look at the dark waters and refused to swim in any water that was home to piranhas and caiman. (Caimans are carnivorous relatives of the alligator. There are several species in the Amazon.) She did do her share of hiking and climbing, but swimming was definitely not her thing.

We had a fabulous time. Several of us went out on the lake with fishing poles and managed to catch some piranha, which we barbecued for dinner the last night at the lodge. I find piranha much too boney to eat, but from what little taste I had the seasoning was good and I was told it was delicious.

In the late afternoon on our second day at the lodge our group gathered for our afternoon hike, a medicinal hike through the surrounding rain forest. Our native guide explained the healing powers of several of the plants and trees and how they are used by the local tribes. It was absolutely fascinating.

One of my least favorite activities at the lodge was the expedition to the canopy walk. The 940-foot-long canopy walk is approximately 100 feet off the ground and is reached by a sturdy stairway that is fixed to the ground with metal towers for stability. I actually enjoyed the hike from the lodge to the tower and even the climb up was a piece of cake. However, the canopy walk was a real challenge to my acrophobia.

Similar to those in Costa Rica, the bridge has a slight swing and to say I was “not a happy camper” is an understatement. It also didn’t help that the “kids” group came running up and thought it was a real hoot to make the bridge swing. I did manage to get out on the bridge (for a quick look) and the view from top was magnificent. Lots of birds and some howler monkeys not easily spotted from the ground.

Sacha Lodge also has its own butterfly farm with an experimental breeding program started several years ago. Designed as a live exhibition conservatory, the Butterfly House is now successfully breeding nearly 45 local butterfly species.

The last night at the lodge we went out on a caiman hunt. I’m not sure who was more frightened, Barbara Handel, Pamela Handel, or Heather Cox. All were clutching the sides of the canoe, but braved the dark waters in search of the beady red eyes, the telltale sign that a caiman has been sighted. Our first paddle around the lake proved fruitless, however, the second time around we caught the red eyes in the glare of the flashlight.

A six-foot caiman was just slithering into the water, paralyzed for a moment as five flashlights blinded the poor devil. After seeing the caiman up close and personal, we all followed Heather back to the lodge; none of us wanted to take a dip to cool off!!!

As much as we enjoyed the rain forest and Sacha Lodge, it was time to return to civilization. We arrived into Quito in the early afternoon. I must say the air-conditioning at the Marriott felt wonderful and the massage I had scheduled, before leaving for the rain forest, felt absolutely decadent. I will admit, I love the outdoors, but I also like to be pampered.

I met up with Marjorie Handel just as she returned to the Marriott Hotel from her three days at La Mirage Garden Hotel and Spa, a resort one hour north of Quito. Marjorie was still recovering from lung surgery at that time and had decided that the rain forest experience was far too hectic and she needed three days of relaxation before going on to the Galapagos Islands. La Mirage was the perfect choice.

According to Marjorie, La Mirage is the best spa she has ever been to. The food was absolutely wonderful and the service was impeccable--not only did they light the fireplace in her room every night, but they also put hot water bottles in the bed to warm the sheets (August is the middle of winter in Ecuador). The spa treatments were wonderful and included a choice of 17 types of massages and treatments. The atmosphere of the spa and the entire resort, exuded calmness and relaxation.

I enjoyed the quietness of the afternoon. The rest of the group--51 more people, including Bill Handel, were due into Quito that evening. My time for relaxation was coming to an end. Join me next week as we explore colonial Quito and visit the Equatorial Monument and Museum.

ECUADOR #3: Quito, a City of Contrasts

This article is part 3 of a series of articles on a trip to the Ecuadorian Amazon and the Galapagos Islands with Bill Handel and 100 of his friends and fans in August, 2005. I also had the opportunity to travel with my daughter, Heather, not exactly an outdoor person, but a real trooper when it comes to travel.

To continue my Ecuadorian adventure, we were back in Quito after three days at Sacha Lodge, a premier lodge in the rainforest of Ecuador. As much as I enjoy the great outdoors, I was happy to be back at the Marriott Hotel in downtown Quito with its large soaking tubs, air conditioning and a wonderful spa center that worked wonders on my sore muscles.

The rest of the group, including Bill Handel, flew in that night and we met them at the airport with wonderful tales from the rainforest, including the sighting of a pit viper (snake) and a wolf spider the size of my hand.



By the smiles on their faces, I’m not sure if they were happy or sad they didn’t go with us to the rainforest.

The following morning we were off for our tour of Quito and the Equatorial Monument. Quito, the capital of the Republic of Ecuador, is a mixture of old and new: centuries old colonial buildings huddle next to modern skyscrapers and fast-food outlets; fashion conscious professionals in suits pass vendors in native costume selling their wares to the throngs of tourists; and shining new trolley’s glide silently by ancient buses that are overcrowded with belching clouds of black smoke.




For all its contradictions, Quito is a beautiful city and blessed with a near-perfect climate year-round. Flanked by the Andes mountain range, Quito actually sits in a valley surrounded by snow-capped mountains. After La Paz, Bolivia, Quito is the second highest capital in South America at 9,350 feet.




Today, the population of Quito is over 1.2 million and is divided between the old and new. The northern part of the city is definitely more modern and includes the international and domestic airports, embassies, shopping malls, hotels, banking services, bars, nightclubs and restaurants. The southern area, or Old Town, in contrast, houses various museums, churches, local art galleries, cathedrals, colonial buildings, beautiful plazas and outdoor markets.







The Old Town is definitely more interesting. We meandered down cobblestone streets and pedestrian walkways, going into several of the beautiful old churches and cathedrals.


We stood on the balcony of the Presidential Palace and watched the changing of the guards. We also watched a demonstration by teachers and government workers in the Plaza Grande, in front of the Presidential Palace. My Spanish is a bit rusty, but according to our guide, the demonstration was over higher salaries for teachers. It seems the problems of teachers are the same worldwide.

Next on our agenda was a visit to La Mitad del Mundo--where the “middle of the world” is located. Twenty miles north of Quito is the Equatorial Monument, built in honor of the imaginary line that divides the earth into two hemispheres, north and south.

Near the monument is a wonderful Solar Museum or outdoor museum, called Intinyan, The Path of the Sun. Since there were several young people in our group, Carol Walton, my co-leader and resident naturalist guide, thought it would be much more fun to have some “hands-on” science experiments, rather than just looking at an imaginary line called the equator. Both the adults and the kids had a ball. The first part of the tour included replicas of traditional Quitu, Quichia and Shuar dwellings that show how the indigenous people lived. The “kids” were delighted with the shrunken heads and particularly enjoyed the blowgun demonstration. My favorite part was when we came to the equator and the guide demonstrated, with a sink and a pale of water, how water runs clockwise in the southern hemisphere, counterclockwise in the northern hemisphere, and straight down when you’re on the equator. We all had fun with that experiment. We returned to Quito in the late afternoon in time to repack and get ready for our flight to the Galapagos Islands

We flew into San Cristobal, the easternmost island in the Galapagos, and one of two airports located on the islands.

The guides from our ship, the Galapagos Explorer II, met us at the airport and divided us into groups of 16. Our first stop was the Galapagos National Park Visitors Center. Opened in 1998, the Interpretation Center presents a complete and documented history of the Galapagos, its ecosystems, flora and fauna. It was a great introduction to the islands, and enhanced our excitement about what we would see on the different islands in the coming week.

Like a movie production, we arrived at the pier and were greeted by a small group of sea lions. They sat on the pier and we literally had to step over them to walk down some steps, and onto the waiting zodiacs, to take us to the ship. Sea lions are real hams and they gladly posed for the camera--or cameras in this case. It was our first animal sighting and everyone wanted a picture.

We arrived at the ship and the smile on my face said it all. On my last visit to the Galapagos in 1997, I had been aboard the Polaris, an expedition type ship that was very comfortable, but very basic. Our cabin on the Polaris was 106 sq ft. The Galapagos Explorer II is beautiful and the smallest cabin is 250 sq ft.

Following a quick tour of the ship, we met with the naturalist guides for our first orientation. After the obligatory safety drill, we set sail. The excitement aboard ship was audible. Our first stop was Ochoa Beach, a white sandy beach on the island of San Cristobal, and the home of a large sea lion colony. This was to be a wet landing, which meant water shoes or sandals. We were also advised to bring snorkeling gear and cameras. Again, we were greeted by a group of sea lions that were as excited to see us as we were to see them. Once in the water, the sea lions viewed us as “playmates” and swam with us, played tag, and blew bubbles in our faces. I don’t know who was more excited, the children, the adults or the sea lions. Everyone had a great time.







Join me next week as we sail to the Island of Espanola and our first sighting of marine iguanas and the colorful Blue-footed Boobies.

GALAPAGOS #1: A Living Laboratory

It’s reassuring to know some places don’t change with time...the Galapagos Islands are one of those places. The islands were discovered in the mid-1500s and named after its famed inhabitants, the giant tortoises. The word galapagos, in Spanish, means saddle, and refers to the carapace, or shell of these huge reptiles. The islands belong to Ecuador, and in 1934, were officially declared a wildlife sanctuary. In 1959 the islands became a national park in order to preserve the unusual fauna and flora of the islands.

Six-thirty a.m. wake-up call. It became a regular part of our routine. In the dining room I could hear the excitement and the anticipation of the day’s adventure. During the “evening briefing” the previous night (that also became a regular part of our routine), Billy, the ship’s expedition leader, gave us information on the following day’s activities. It would be a “dry landing” (we would disembark from our zodiac onto a pier or a deck, not into water.)

The difficulty level was high due to a rocky, uneven trail; the hike would last two and a half hours and we could expect to see waved albatross, Blue-footed Boobies, sea lions, marine iguanas, Tropic Birds, Galapagos Doves, Mockingbirds and three different species of finches.

We divided into groups of 16 (the number allowed in the zodiac) and off we went. As we walked ashore on Espanola Island in the middle of a sea lion colony, I felt we had entered another world, that we had regressed many thousands of years into primeval existence…. Marine iguanas basked lazily on the rocks, seemingly not aware or not bothered by our presence; Mockingbirds and Ground Finches pecked around our feet with no more fear than chickens in a barnyard. At one point, a fellow hiker, Teresa Kennedy, uncapped her water bottle and before she was able to take a drink, a Mockingbird landed on her hand, also wanting a drink. Apparently, fresh water is scarce and mockingbirds have learned that tourists, with water bottles, are a new source of fresh water.

Everywhere we looked there was wildlife. It didn’t take long to find our first Blue-footed Booby. Where the name booby came from I have no idea, nor did our naturalist guide, but the blue feet are obvious. We saw several nesting along the trail, and often had to walk off the trail so as not to step on the nest. The Boobies watched as we passed, I think they were wondering why we didn’t have blue feet.

Also nesting on the island is the Nazca Masked Booby, no blue feet or blue bill, but a unique looking bird with black rings around its eyes, which, as the name implies, resemble a mask. Our naturalist guide, Walter, explained about the three different types of boobies: the Blue-footed Booby, the Nazca Masked Booby and a Red-footed Booby that nests on another island.

Not being scientifically oriented, I found it fascinating that each booby adapts to its own surroundings: the blue-footed boobys nest on the ground, inland; the Masked Boobies on the cliff’s edge; and the red-footed boobys nest in trees. Before the question was even asked, we were told there are no purple-footed boobys--they are all distinct species and do not inter-breed. Apparently, the courtship dance of the Blue-footed Booby with all the honking, sky pointing and frantic dance movements is not a turn on for the Red-footed Booby.

Before taking my first trip to the Galapagos in 1997, I knew very little about birds, other than Crows are real pests and make lots of noise. Once our naturalist guide started putting names to the different species of birds, and telling us about their habits and their role in the evolutionary chain, birds took on a whole new significance. It was even better this trip because my nephew, Robert Hewitt, an ornithologist, who teaches at Humbolt State University, was along on the trip. Between Robert and Walter, we became very well versed on the habits and sex-life of the different bird species (Bill Handel wanted to know how they “shtuped.”) I now enjoy bird watching far more than I did, and have a great pair of binoculars that helps tremendously, but I’m not ready to join the Audubon Society.

As we hiked back to the zodiac, our guide gave us a brief history of the islands and what it was like when Charles Darwin visited the islands in 1835. That visit inspired Darwin to write his book, Origin of the Species, which shaped evolutionary science forever, and confirmed his innovative concept of natural selection and survival of the fittest. Nowhere is this more evident than in the Galapagos Islands.

As we had lunch and did a bit of “bird-watching” from the observation deck, the ship sailed from Espanola Island to Santa Cruz Island, the home of the Charles Darwin Research Center.

As we disembarked (a dry landing) and walked to the center, I was shocked at how much the center had grown. For a moment I felt I was at Disneyland or the San Diego Zoo. The hatcheries, the laboratories and the small museum paying homage to Charles Darwin and his evolutionary theories were somewhat the same, but the pens where the giant tortoises are kept were modernized and beautified … like an exhibit at the San Diego Zoo. Even Lonesome George had a new, large “home” with plenty of space to wander. (Lonesome George is a giant tortoise that is the last of his species. He has lots of “girlfriends,” but to date, no offspring. Scientist are looking far and wide, but still have not found a mate for Lonesome George.)

Even though I had said there were no changes in the Galapagos, I should have said, natural changes, because there were lots of man-made changes on Santa Cruise Island. In 1997, there were two or three tourist type shops selling souvenirs. Now there must be 20 shops selling t-shirts, jewelry, art work and other souvenirs plus several restaurants. I was shocked. I think they call it progress. Actually, it is due to the increase in tourism over the years. In 1997 there were 55,000 tourists allowed on the islands. Today, that number has increased to 85,000 tourists and growing.

It had been a full day. The kids, full of energy, shot up to the main lounge for the Karaoke machine. Some of the adults found the piano player in the upstairs lounge and even had the energy to dance. My daughter, Heather, and a few other hearty souls stayed in town and had dinner at one of the local restaurants. After dinner and our briefing, I was definitely ready for bed.

GALAPAGOS #2: The Seabirds of Tower Island

We were getting into the routine--6:30 a.m., time to rise and shine. After the previous days outing, when we all saw our first Blue-footed Boobies and marine iguanas, the group was raring to go. Again, we broke into groups of 16 (the number of people on a zodiac) with the “kids” going first and the “not-so-fast-walkers” bringing up the rear. This morning’s outing was a visit to Tower or Genovesa Island, known for its large population of seabirds including the Swallow-tailed Gulls,

Red-footed Boobies, Masked Boobies,

Storm Petrels, and Red-billed Tropic Bird. There is also a large colony of fur sea lions, a relative of the sea lions we saw on Espanola Islands and in San Cristobal, when we boarded the ship.

Our tour began with a zodiac ride along the base of the cliffs. Nests of Red-billed Tropic Bird were visible in every crevice in the shear cliff wall. It was fascinating to watch one Tropic bird after another make a precise landing in their cliffside nests, usually followed by several piratical Frigate Birds in pursuit of breakfast (Frigate Birds are notorious for stealing food from other birds.)

As we motored along the cliffs, I was remembering the climb to the top via a staircase built into the side of the cliff, better known as Prince Phillip’s Steps. The steep, rocky staircase was still there, and now had a handrail that made the climb much easier. The view from the top was worth the hike. Across the flat plateau we could see dozens of Nazca Masked-Boobies nesting with white, fluffy chicks in various stages of development. Storm Petrels and Frigate Birds flew overhead.



As we continued our walk, the terrain began to change and we soon entered a “wooded” area; actually a forest of dwarf palo santo trees where we spotted our first Red-footed Boobies perched in the trees. Red-footed Boobies are the only members of the booby family to nest in trees. Red-footed boobies lay a single egg and both sexes incubate and fend for the young.

Back on the ship, with Bloody Mary in hand, I listened to Billy, our ship’s expedition leader, talk about the “El Nino” phenomenon and its effect on the fauna in the Galapagos. For the afternoon I was looking forward to snorkeling and some beach time in Darwin Bay.

Mid-day, our ship changed locations and sailed to the southern part of Tower Island, entering Darwin Bay, the caldera of an extinct, partially eroded volcano, with the surrounding cliffs forming the inner portion of the rim. After a wet landing on a coral beach, we again divided into groups. The kids were absolutely fascinated with all the sea lions and wanted to stay and play in the water with their newly found friends. I’m not sure who was more vigilant, the parents of the kids or the “beach master” (the male sea lion that watches over his harem and offspring.)

As we walked away from the beach we found a large mangrove area filled with nesting Red-footed Boobies. We spotted several Swallow-tail gulls nesting near and even on the trail, and were careful not to disturb any nests. It still amazes me that the birds were not frightened by our presence.



The trail continued past a beautiful tide pool, to the cliff’s edge with a commanding view of the bay. On our way back to the beach, we spotted our first Galapagos Owl, better known as a short-eared owl, beautifully camouflaged, hiding in a hollow log. Later, when I was going through my pictures, I kept wondering what I had taken a picture of, until I saw the eyes. I’m sure he was patiently waiting to make a sneak attack on some unsuspecting Storm petrel.

Back on the beach several of us donned wet suits and headed off on a zodiac for some deep-water snorkeling. The waters in the Galapagos are cold (around 66 degrees) due to the Humboldt Current that sweeps northward from the Antarctic, which is necessary to keep the Galapagos’s ecosystem in balance. The snorkeling along the cliffs was good and we saw great sea life: my first sea turtle, some Moorish Idols, starfish and a White-banded Angel Fish. One of the snorkelers, in another group, spotted a White-tipped Shark, but I had no such luck.

During the night we sailed back to Santa Cruz Island and after breakfast left for a tour of the Highlands, and a chance to see giant tortoises in the wild. The Highlands are cool and damp, far different from the arid environment along the beach area. We managed to see several tortoises, scouted out by the guide that preceded our group.




While half the group went back to the ship, the other half, the more adventurous group, put on rubber boots and headed for a tour of a lava tube or tunnel, similar to those found in Hawaii. I don’t recommend this excursion if you’re claustrophobic. It was interesting--a trickling of an underground stream “flowed” the length of the tube and like many underground caves, had interesting rock formations. As fascinating as everything was, I was very happy when we climbed out and I took a breath of fresh air.

The afternoon was another beach day and I welcomed the opportunity to sit and watch the sea lions at play.

GALAPAGOS #3: The Mating Game

This article is the last in a series about my trip to the Galapagos Islands with KFI’s Bill Handel and 100 of his friends and fans in August, 2005.

We had been aboard the Explorer II for 4 days and had visited several of the islands that are part of the Galapagos Archipelago. The photographers among us were going crazy; they were definitely not used to animals and birds “staying put” and not flying or running off. They soon realized that they really didn’t need their telephoto lenses and could get within a foot of their subjects --Marine Iguanas, Blue-footed, Red- footed and Masked Boobies, sea lions, Frigate Birds, Galapagos Hawks, mockingbirds, finches-- they all seem to want their pictures taken!!! The biggest “hams” were the sea lions--they waddled out of the water and sat on the beach or on rocks and posed for the camera, or so it appeared. They really were wonderful subjects.


We disembarked on Bartholome Island and started the morning with a geology lecture and a hike, followed by a climb (360 steps) to the summit of a once active volcano, with a spectacular view of Sullivan Bay and Pinnacle Rock, a landmark in the islands and a perfect example of a tuff cone (a vertical rock formation of hardened ash.) On the climb up, Walter, our guide, pointed out the different types of lava and explained that the type of lava flow depends on the temperature of the molten lava and the gas content. The type of lava most prevalent on Bartholome Island is Aa lava; it has a lower temperature and less gas content, which makes for a slower flow that causes broken flows and sharp edges.

Once back in the zodiac, we took a tour of the bay and saw our first Galapagos Penguins, one of the few warm climate penguins and also one of the smallest. We also spotted some Brown Pelicans, lava herons, frigate birds and my favorite, some Blue-footed Boobies that were demonstrating their diving skills and their ability to find breakfast.Each day took on a new sense of excitement and adventure. As we disembarked on Fernandina Island, I could swear the ground was moving until I realized we were seeing hundreds of Marine Iguanas basking in the afternoon sun. The iguanas were literally piled on one another, and because of their dark color, it was difficult to see them against the black lava terrain.


As we followed the trail inland, we spotted our first flightless Cormorants. Endemic to the Galapagos Islands, these birds are flightless because on the islands they had no predators and it was easier to find food in the ocean than on land. Overtime, they progressively evolved into swimmers, rather than fliers. This is a story right out of the pages of Darwin’s Origin of the Species, where evolution and survival go hand in hand.

As we were approaching North Seymour Island, a male Frigate Bird flew overhead with his red pouch extended to the size of a small balloon. The photographers went wild. During courtship, male Frigate Birds sit on trees or shrubs with their sacs inflated. When a female flies overhead, they turn skyward, shake, and loudly call attention to themselves. Not very subtle, but an effective technique. When the female is ready to “accept” the offer, she lands next to her chosen mate. Once the male finds his mate, and feels secure, the sac deflates. As I said earlier, the males have a very effective technique, since we saw lots of occupied nests along the trail inland.

On our last night aboard ship, a sense of sadness prevailed; no one wanted to leave. It had been a wonderful trip, even if we did have to get up at 6:30 every morning. The Galapagos Islands are incredible: it’s the only place I know where people can get so close to the wildlife in their natural environment, where they are not frightened.

We flew back to Quito the following morning. The trip was not over yet, we still had one more day, and the shoppers in the group were excited--we were going to the Otavalo Indian Market, the largest Indian market in Ecuador, famous for its textiles and handcrafted goods. Once again, we were up early, as Otavalo is located an hour and a half north of Quito.

Otavalo really is a shopper’s paradise. The streets are jammed with stalls selling ponchos, sweaters, tablecloths, textiles, purses, musical instruments and jewelry, among other goods. Judging by the shopping bags brought back to the bus, I can honestly say, everyone had a great time. Tom Kennedy and this indigenous grannie had quite a chat!

We flew back to California the next morning. As I dozed on the plane, I kept having visions of baby sea lions playing in the water, iguanas basking in the sun, Red- and Blue-footed Boobys and Magnificent Frigate birds soaring through the cloudless sky. Wonderful memories of a fabulous trip to an incredible destination. Definitely one of my favorite places!!!



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