We had spent a full day at the Normandy Landing Beaches, which was not long enough to really understand the full impact of the D-Day invasion and the significance it had on the outcome of World War II. Visiting the American Cemetery, as well as the British and Canadian Cemeteries, made us realize the immense toll it took on all the Allied forces.
The following day, after a wonderful morning exploring the grounds of Chateau de Canisy, we were off to Mont Saint Michele, a rocky islet topped by a famous Gothic abbey, off the coast of Normandy, by the English Channel. As we drove up to the island it was very exciting seeing the abbey for the first time. I had seen pictures of the abbey so many times I felt I had been there. Like seeing Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria, after visiting Cinderella’s Castle at Disneyland, seeing the real thing is thrilling.
Mont Saint Michele was first connected to the mainland by a thin natural bridge, which, before modernization, was covered at high tide and revealed at low tide. Mont Saint Michele was unique, an island half the time and attached to land the other half --- a tidal island. Due to the canalization of the Couesnon River, the island, located approximately three miles from shore during the Middle Ages, is now connected to land by a causeway. There are still tidal conditions and the parking lot does fill with water certain times of the month. Our bus had to move to a different location by 8:00pm so as not to get caught by the rising tide.
We wound our way by foot up to the abbey along a cobblestone street lined with restaurants and souvenir shops. It’s uphill all the way, but worth every huff and puff to reach the top. The abbey of Mont Saint Michele is an architectural masterpiece built in the 13th century, replacing the original abbey, which was founded in 708 by Saint Aubert, bishop of Avranches, but destroyed by King Philip II of France in 1203.
Even though the island was able to withstand repeated English assaults during the Hundred Years’ War, it lost its popularity and prestige during the Reformation and, by the time of the French Revolution, there were scarcely any monks in residence. The abbey was closed and converted into a prison during Napoleon’s reign. Restored after 1863, and connected to the mainland by a causeway, the abbey is preserved as a national historical monument and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. .
Whatever direction we drove, the Normandy countryside is bucolic with large areas of pastureland, charming villages and a dramatic coastline. To my delight, the weather was fabulous: blue skies, no rain, and ideal with a light jacket to keep the chill off.
On our last day in Normandy we headed for Honfleur, a picturesque village on the estuary of the Seine River, opposite the port of La Harve. I can definitely see why artists are attracted to Honfleur ---- it’s a picture postcard. We wandered through the narrow, cobblestone streets, visited Saint Catherine’s Church (built entirely out of wood by local ships’ carpenters to celebrate the departure of the English after the Hundred Years’ War) and finally stopped for lunch at one of the many restaurants that line the harbor area. It was a perfect day to sit outside, with a glass of wine, and people watch.
No trip to Normandy would be complete without a trip to Bayeux, famous for the nine centuries old Bayeux Tapestry that depicts the story of the quarrel between William, Duke of Normandy (William the Conqueror), and King Harold of England, and the subsequent events which led to Harold’s defeat at the Battle of Hastings in 1066.
The renowned tapestry, actually, an embroidery, is 203 feet in length and about a foot in height, not at all what I expected. It is a wonderful rendering of the decisive events in the history of England.
It was hard leaving the Chateau. The food and the service were fabulous --- we had been totally spoiled for four days. We said our goodbyes and headed for Paris to catch the high-speed train to Dijon. That was my first time aboard the TGV and it was great: modern, smooth and fast. In two hours we were in Dijon.
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
FRANCE: Visiting the Beaches of Normandy
It has been several weeks since I sat down at my computer to write my Travel Tips column. I have been out of the country since early October; I feel like a jet setter. I started my travels in France on October 8th, and ended in Cuba on November 17th, with a trip to Israel in between for my daughter’s wedding. It has been a hectic six weeks and I am very happy to be home.
I have not been to France in years, and when I was living in Europe, I never had the opportunity to visit the Normandy area. Also, in all my travels on different type ships, from icebreakers to luxury liners, I have never been on a barge. I combined the two and added a three-day stay in Paris. For the next few weeks I’ll share with you my adventures as we visited the beaches of Normandy and the delightful towns of Honfleur and Mont St. Michele. We then traveled by train to Dijon and boarded the La Litote, our home away from home for six nights as we traveled down the Burgundy Canal, visiting small villages and vineyards. We ended our trip with a three-day stay in Paris---it was all very exciting since we were there with thousands of “Brits” who were in Paris for the Rugby World Cup.
Our trip began in Paris where we boarded our bus for Normandy. Our first stop on the itinerary was Giverny, Claude Monet’s beautiful home and gardens. Claude Monet, an Impressionist painter best known for his beautiful landscapes, lived with his family in the small village of Giverny, 80 miles west of Paris, from 1883 until his death in 1926. After lunch in the village we visited his home and strolled through the colorful gardens, all authentically restored. The lily pond is exquisite as is the Japanese bridge. I was amazed at the numbers of flowers still in bloom in October.
I thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Giverny and wished we had more time. If you’re planning a trip to the Normandy area, make sure you plan a stop to see the wonderful village of Giverny, so vividly brought to life in Monet’s paintings.
It was late afternoon by the time we left Giverny and it had started raining, not unusual for France in October. Our destination was the Chateau de Canisy, a thousand year old castle located in the heart of Normandy. By the time we reached the chateau it was cold and still overcast, but the rain had stopped. We entered sunshine --- or maybe it was the smiles and warm greetings from the welcoming staff that made the castle come alive. The fire blazing in the salon added warmth as we sat and enjoyed a welcome drink and some light refreshments, before being shown to our rooms.
Every bedroom in the castle is different and we were like children, running from room to room, amazed at all the antique furnishings combined with modern accoutrements to make staying in a 1000 year old castle comfortable.
Dinner was at 9:00 and we sat down to a table set for royalty. I have never seen so many pieces of silverware!!! By the end of dinner, two hours later, we managed to use every piece during our five-course meal. A wonderful beginning to our stay in Normandy.
Early the next morning, we left the Chateau to visit the landing sites and museums along the Normandy coast, where, on June 6, 1944, the largest seaborne invasion in history took place when Allied forces crossed the English channel and changed the course of World War II. I remember studying about the Allied invasion in high school, but I had no idea of the emotional impact I would feel when visiting the American Cemetery and Memorial, located on the cliff above Omaha Beach. I had seen many pictures, but the stark reality of row upon row of white stone crosses and Stars of David, which mark the graves of 9,387 U.S. soldiers, sailors and airman, most of them casualties of the Normandy invasion, is tough to see. All the markers face west, toward home. The park is beautifully maintained and it’s truly inspiring to see the American and French flags flying side by side.
Wherever we went, Omaha Beach, Utah Beach, the D-Day Museum, the harbor at Arromanche --- we were greeted with friendly smiles and a warm thank you for being Americans, and for all America did to help the French and British during WW II. In the afternoon, when we stopped for lunch near Omaha Beach, we met an American soldier who was part of the Allied forces that landed in Normandy. He was there with his daughter and granddaughter, and just listening to his story brought me to tears. The entire restaurant gave him a standing ovation. A much different reception than we usually get from the French!!!
We returned to the Chateau in the late afternoon and had some time before nightfall to explore the park-like setting around the Chateau. The castle dates back to the Middle Ages and has actually been in the same family since 1558, passed on from generation to generation. In April 1789, the castle was given to a granddaughter of the owners as a wedding gift, and by a quirk of fate, honeymooning in Italy and not being in France, the young couple survived the French Revolution. The rest of the family was not so lucky and several members were guillotined on July 14, 1794.
I have not been to France in years, and when I was living in Europe, I never had the opportunity to visit the Normandy area. Also, in all my travels on different type ships, from icebreakers to luxury liners, I have never been on a barge. I combined the two and added a three-day stay in Paris. For the next few weeks I’ll share with you my adventures as we visited the beaches of Normandy and the delightful towns of Honfleur and Mont St. Michele. We then traveled by train to Dijon and boarded the La Litote, our home away from home for six nights as we traveled down the Burgundy Canal, visiting small villages and vineyards. We ended our trip with a three-day stay in Paris---it was all very exciting since we were there with thousands of “Brits” who were in Paris for the Rugby World Cup.
Our trip began in Paris where we boarded our bus for Normandy. Our first stop on the itinerary was Giverny, Claude Monet’s beautiful home and gardens. Claude Monet, an Impressionist painter best known for his beautiful landscapes, lived with his family in the small village of Giverny, 80 miles west of Paris, from 1883 until his death in 1926. After lunch in the village we visited his home and strolled through the colorful gardens, all authentically restored. The lily pond is exquisite as is the Japanese bridge. I was amazed at the numbers of flowers still in bloom in October.
I thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Giverny and wished we had more time. If you’re planning a trip to the Normandy area, make sure you plan a stop to see the wonderful village of Giverny, so vividly brought to life in Monet’s paintings.
It was late afternoon by the time we left Giverny and it had started raining, not unusual for France in October. Our destination was the Chateau de Canisy, a thousand year old castle located in the heart of Normandy. By the time we reached the chateau it was cold and still overcast, but the rain had stopped. We entered sunshine --- or maybe it was the smiles and warm greetings from the welcoming staff that made the castle come alive. The fire blazing in the salon added warmth as we sat and enjoyed a welcome drink and some light refreshments, before being shown to our rooms.
Every bedroom in the castle is different and we were like children, running from room to room, amazed at all the antique furnishings combined with modern accoutrements to make staying in a 1000 year old castle comfortable.
Dinner was at 9:00 and we sat down to a table set for royalty. I have never seen so many pieces of silverware!!! By the end of dinner, two hours later, we managed to use every piece during our five-course meal. A wonderful beginning to our stay in Normandy.
Early the next morning, we left the Chateau to visit the landing sites and museums along the Normandy coast, where, on June 6, 1944, the largest seaborne invasion in history took place when Allied forces crossed the English channel and changed the course of World War II. I remember studying about the Allied invasion in high school, but I had no idea of the emotional impact I would feel when visiting the American Cemetery and Memorial, located on the cliff above Omaha Beach. I had seen many pictures, but the stark reality of row upon row of white stone crosses and Stars of David, which mark the graves of 9,387 U.S. soldiers, sailors and airman, most of them casualties of the Normandy invasion, is tough to see. All the markers face west, toward home. The park is beautifully maintained and it’s truly inspiring to see the American and French flags flying side by side.
Wherever we went, Omaha Beach, Utah Beach, the D-Day Museum, the harbor at Arromanche --- we were greeted with friendly smiles and a warm thank you for being Americans, and for all America did to help the French and British during WW II. In the afternoon, when we stopped for lunch near Omaha Beach, we met an American soldier who was part of the Allied forces that landed in Normandy. He was there with his daughter and granddaughter, and just listening to his story brought me to tears. The entire restaurant gave him a standing ovation. A much different reception than we usually get from the French!!!
We returned to the Chateau in the late afternoon and had some time before nightfall to explore the park-like setting around the Chateau. The castle dates back to the Middle Ages and has actually been in the same family since 1558, passed on from generation to generation. In April 1789, the castle was given to a granddaughter of the owners as a wedding gift, and by a quirk of fate, honeymooning in Italy and not being in France, the young couple survived the French Revolution. The rest of the family was not so lucky and several members were guillotined on July 14, 1794.
FRANCE: Paris, following barging through Burgundy
The last several articles have been on my trip to Normandy and the barge trip through the Burgundy Canal. It was a wonderful trip and none of us wanted to leave the barge. The day prior to our departure from Dijon the train engineers throughout France went on strike. We were hoping that meant we could stay longer, but trains were still running, though on a reduced schedule, and the Litote was already chartered for the following week. We were all very disappointed!!
The train engineers timed their strike perfectly. We arrived in Paris on Friday, October 19th, the weekend of the final match of the World Cup Rugby Tournament between South Africa and Great Britain. The train station was a madhouse; “Brits” were everywhere. To lend support to the train engineers, the metro (the subway) was also on a holiday time schedule and taxis were impossible to find. Thank goodness we had a bus waiting for us to go to our hotel.
I had not been to Paris in many years. In fact, the last time I was in Paris was when I traveled with my friend Marjorie (Handel) on our trip through Europe when I graduated college…many, many years ago. At that time we spent a week going from museums, to churches, to art exhibits to sculpture gardens---Marjorie had just finished a class in art history and we didn’t want to miss a thing!!! In those days traveling in Paris was relatively cheap and it was easy to find inexpensive lodging on the left bank. Times have definitely changed.
This time in Paris we stayed at the Hotel Keppler, a charming four-star boutique hotel on the right bank two blocks off the Champs-Elysees and near the Arc de Triomphe. It was a fun location with metro stops quite close, which would have been nice if the metro was on its regular schedule. The first morning we took a half-day city tour of Paris, which reacquainted me with the city. Much to my surprise, it really didn’t look that much different. Traffic around the Ard de Triomphe was ridiculous with people going around in circles, the cafes along the Champs Elysees were crowded with tourists, and the Eiffle Tower was the same, except for the giant rugby ball hanging from the center. In all seriousness, monuments really don’t change that much.
One major addition to the Paris skyline is La Grand Roue Ferris Wheel near the Place de la Concorde, just west of Tulleries Gardens. It was built as part of the millennium celebration in January 2001 and is still spinning. According to our guide, “the big wheel has caused much controversy and many Parisians see it as an eyesore.”
With transportation at a minimum, the best way to get around the city was on foot. Carolyn Groves, my long time friend and fellow circus mom, took off on foot for the Rue de Saint Honore, a great shopping area between the Louvre and the Opera. It was fun to window shop and see the latest fashions from Versace, Hermes and Yves Saint Laurent. We also took a short detour so I could see The Ritz, considered one of the top hotels in Paris. The hotel is absolutely beautiful and outrageously expensive.
The following morning we drove out of Paris to Versailles, the grand palace originally built as a hunting lodge and later became the official residence of the Kings of France from 1682 until 1790. The palace is truly magnificent with extensive gardens and parklands. I think opulence is the word that best describes Versailles. During the French Revolution the palace came under attack and was stripped of most of its furnishings.
Versailles is now a national museum and the French government is pouring millions of euros into preserving and restoring the palace and grounds to its original splendor. I really wanted to see the famous fountains, designed by La Notre in the late 17th century, and read they were operational on Sundays during the fall and winter months. It seems the cost of keeping the grounds has become prohibitive and the museum has been forced to cut back on services. The fountains are dry until spring.
For our last night in Paris we celebrated with a dinner cruise on the Seine. It may be touristy, but it was lots of fun. Paris is beautiful by day and magical at night. Even the Eiffel Tower took on a special glow with rotating red, yellow and green lights in honor of South Africa winning the Rugby World Cup. It was a delightful evening and the perfect ending to a great two weeks in Normandy and the French countryside.
The train engineers timed their strike perfectly. We arrived in Paris on Friday, October 19th, the weekend of the final match of the World Cup Rugby Tournament between South Africa and Great Britain. The train station was a madhouse; “Brits” were everywhere. To lend support to the train engineers, the metro (the subway) was also on a holiday time schedule and taxis were impossible to find. Thank goodness we had a bus waiting for us to go to our hotel.
I had not been to Paris in many years. In fact, the last time I was in Paris was when I traveled with my friend Marjorie (Handel) on our trip through Europe when I graduated college…many, many years ago. At that time we spent a week going from museums, to churches, to art exhibits to sculpture gardens---Marjorie had just finished a class in art history and we didn’t want to miss a thing!!! In those days traveling in Paris was relatively cheap and it was easy to find inexpensive lodging on the left bank. Times have definitely changed.
This time in Paris we stayed at the Hotel Keppler, a charming four-star boutique hotel on the right bank two blocks off the Champs-Elysees and near the Arc de Triomphe. It was a fun location with metro stops quite close, which would have been nice if the metro was on its regular schedule. The first morning we took a half-day city tour of Paris, which reacquainted me with the city. Much to my surprise, it really didn’t look that much different. Traffic around the Ard de Triomphe was ridiculous with people going around in circles, the cafes along the Champs Elysees were crowded with tourists, and the Eiffle Tower was the same, except for the giant rugby ball hanging from the center. In all seriousness, monuments really don’t change that much.
One major addition to the Paris skyline is La Grand Roue Ferris Wheel near the Place de la Concorde, just west of Tulleries Gardens. It was built as part of the millennium celebration in January 2001 and is still spinning. According to our guide, “the big wheel has caused much controversy and many Parisians see it as an eyesore.”
With transportation at a minimum, the best way to get around the city was on foot. Carolyn Groves, my long time friend and fellow circus mom, took off on foot for the Rue de Saint Honore, a great shopping area between the Louvre and the Opera. It was fun to window shop and see the latest fashions from Versace, Hermes and Yves Saint Laurent. We also took a short detour so I could see The Ritz, considered one of the top hotels in Paris. The hotel is absolutely beautiful and outrageously expensive.
The following morning we drove out of Paris to Versailles, the grand palace originally built as a hunting lodge and later became the official residence of the Kings of France from 1682 until 1790. The palace is truly magnificent with extensive gardens and parklands. I think opulence is the word that best describes Versailles. During the French Revolution the palace came under attack and was stripped of most of its furnishings.
Versailles is now a national museum and the French government is pouring millions of euros into preserving and restoring the palace and grounds to its original splendor. I really wanted to see the famous fountains, designed by La Notre in the late 17th century, and read they were operational on Sundays during the fall and winter months. It seems the cost of keeping the grounds has become prohibitive and the museum has been forced to cut back on services. The fountains are dry until spring.
For our last night in Paris we celebrated with a dinner cruise on the Seine. It may be touristy, but it was lots of fun. Paris is beautiful by day and magical at night. Even the Eiffel Tower took on a special glow with rotating red, yellow and green lights in honor of South Africa winning the Rugby World Cup. It was a delightful evening and the perfect ending to a great two weeks in Normandy and the French countryside.
FRANCE: Barging through Burgundy #2
This article is a continuation of my barge trip down the Burgundy Canal this past October. The weather was glorious, the food fabulous and the company wonderful. All of us had traveled together before and it’s particularly nice when you’re traveling to new and fun places to be surrounded by friends. Barging is perfect when you have a variety of age groups since there is as much, or as little, activity as you want. The more active in the group took off on bikes, enjoying the villages and the countryside, and getting some great exercise. Others walked along the towpath between locks and into the nearby villages. Barging really is a great way to see the countryside. Personally, I loved it and have never felt more relaxed.
It was our third day on the barge and we were entering the Valley d’ Ouche, the moist scenic section of the canal. No cars, no congestion, just wooded forests and rich pastureland as far as the eye could see. I had read about hot-air ballooning in the area and when we first got on the barge I had asked if there was a company nearby. As you can see from the pictures, the answer was yes. I had only been hot air ballooning once before, in Turkey, and it was fabulous. Even though it was a foggy morning, the owner of the balloon company, Air Escargot, felt it was a good morning to go up and that the fog would burn off. He was partially right. The fog never really burned off, but it was a magical experience. As we lifted out of the fog we floated across the valley. Villages, shrouded in layers of mist, looked surreal. It was a wonderful balloon experience, even if we couldn’t see the vineyards below.
We moored near the village of Gissey sur Ouche and met Madeline, our wonderful historian and motor coach driver, for an excursion to Meursault, famous for its white wine. As we toured the vineyards Madeline explained that the soil throughout most of Meursault, a mixture of chalk and marl, is perfectly suited to the production of chardonnay. The soil mixture, combined with a largely east or southeast exposure, creates healthy grapes that are “full of character” and produce wonderful Village or Premier Cru, wines. I’m definitely not a wine connoisseur, but I do enjoy a glass of Chardonnay and I was happy to hear the chardonnay grapes had character!!!
On Tuesday morning, after an early breakfast, we boarded our “carriage” and headed to Dijon for market day. I actually wanted to follow Raoul, our chef, through the market, but Madeline had her historian hat on and took us on a walking tour of Dijon’s historical center. When I think of Dijon I think of mustard, but Dijon actually dates back to Roman times. Over the centuries it became a center for the arts, and because it was never ravaged by war, still retains many buildings and architectural styles that date back to medieval times.
Unfortunately, due to our limited time schedule, we did not have time to visit the Musee des Beaux Arts with its renown collection of European paintings from early Renaissance to the Impressionist periods, nor the Ducal Palace --- both “must sees” when visiting Dijon. That alone is a great incentive to go back.
Like most tourists, I had to buy some Dijon Mustard to bring home for gifts only to find that the mustard seeds are now imported from Canada. I’m told the recipe for Dijon Mustard is held under lock and key in the town vaults, but the mustard is made from seeds grown in Canada.
Back on the Litote, we continued to cruise and climb through the pastoral Valley d’Ouche to the picturesque village of Pont d’Ouche. After lunch we drove to Beaune, the main town in the Cite d’Or wine region and the center of the commercial wine trade. After wine, the city’s main attraction is the Hotel-Dieu, an old hospital turned hospice. Perfectly preserved from the Middle Ages, the Hospices de Beaune Hospital was built in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin, Chancellor of Philippe-le-Bon, Duke of Burgundy.
In the wake of the Hundred Years’ War, Beaune was suffering from poverty and famine. To redeem the situation, the Chancellor and his wife decided to found a Hospice for the Poor. They endowed it with an annual income and commissioned Beaune artisans to complete the project.
The Hotel-Dieu, or Hospice, with its gothic facades and beautifully tiled roof, is today considered a jewel of medieval architecture. From the Middle Ages to the 20th century the Hotel-Dieu was used as a hospital for the poor. In 1971 the actual hospital was closed, but the retirement home, on the hospital grounds, is still functional.
Since Beaune is the wine capital of the area, we could not leave without doing a wine tasting. Apparently the wines from the region are very good since several members of the group brought cases of wine to be shipped home.
Out last day on the boat. We arrived in Vandenesse, a quiet village near the summit of the canal. After lunch we visited the medieval village and castle of Chateauneuf en Auxois, once an outpost of the Dukes of Burgundy. I could see where it would be an important military post ---- from the castle there are spectacular views of the surrounding countryside.
We returned to the Litote for our farewell dinner. Raoul, our chef, outdid himself with salmon baked in a salt crust and the most wonderful Crème Boule I have ever tasted. It’s understandable why no one wanted to leave!
We said our goodbyes to the wonderful crew and headed to the train station in Dijon. The first of the transportation strikes had started the day before, but we managed to get seats on one of the few high-speed trains still traveling to Paris.
The week had been magical. I truly love barging. It’s such a wonderful way to see the countryside up close and personal. I so enjoyed bicycling through the villages and just walking along the towpath. The people, the food, the wine, the location --- all perfect. I highly recommend a barge vacation in France. Hmmm --- I wonder if barging in Holland, England or Germany is the same ---- I’ll just have to find out for myself!
It was our third day on the barge and we were entering the Valley d’ Ouche, the moist scenic section of the canal. No cars, no congestion, just wooded forests and rich pastureland as far as the eye could see. I had read about hot-air ballooning in the area and when we first got on the barge I had asked if there was a company nearby. As you can see from the pictures, the answer was yes. I had only been hot air ballooning once before, in Turkey, and it was fabulous. Even though it was a foggy morning, the owner of the balloon company, Air Escargot, felt it was a good morning to go up and that the fog would burn off. He was partially right. The fog never really burned off, but it was a magical experience. As we lifted out of the fog we floated across the valley. Villages, shrouded in layers of mist, looked surreal. It was a wonderful balloon experience, even if we couldn’t see the vineyards below.
We moored near the village of Gissey sur Ouche and met Madeline, our wonderful historian and motor coach driver, for an excursion to Meursault, famous for its white wine. As we toured the vineyards Madeline explained that the soil throughout most of Meursault, a mixture of chalk and marl, is perfectly suited to the production of chardonnay. The soil mixture, combined with a largely east or southeast exposure, creates healthy grapes that are “full of character” and produce wonderful Village or Premier Cru, wines. I’m definitely not a wine connoisseur, but I do enjoy a glass of Chardonnay and I was happy to hear the chardonnay grapes had character!!!
On Tuesday morning, after an early breakfast, we boarded our “carriage” and headed to Dijon for market day. I actually wanted to follow Raoul, our chef, through the market, but Madeline had her historian hat on and took us on a walking tour of Dijon’s historical center. When I think of Dijon I think of mustard, but Dijon actually dates back to Roman times. Over the centuries it became a center for the arts, and because it was never ravaged by war, still retains many buildings and architectural styles that date back to medieval times.
Unfortunately, due to our limited time schedule, we did not have time to visit the Musee des Beaux Arts with its renown collection of European paintings from early Renaissance to the Impressionist periods, nor the Ducal Palace --- both “must sees” when visiting Dijon. That alone is a great incentive to go back.
Like most tourists, I had to buy some Dijon Mustard to bring home for gifts only to find that the mustard seeds are now imported from Canada. I’m told the recipe for Dijon Mustard is held under lock and key in the town vaults, but the mustard is made from seeds grown in Canada.
Back on the Litote, we continued to cruise and climb through the pastoral Valley d’Ouche to the picturesque village of Pont d’Ouche. After lunch we drove to Beaune, the main town in the Cite d’Or wine region and the center of the commercial wine trade. After wine, the city’s main attraction is the Hotel-Dieu, an old hospital turned hospice. Perfectly preserved from the Middle Ages, the Hospices de Beaune Hospital was built in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin, Chancellor of Philippe-le-Bon, Duke of Burgundy.
In the wake of the Hundred Years’ War, Beaune was suffering from poverty and famine. To redeem the situation, the Chancellor and his wife decided to found a Hospice for the Poor. They endowed it with an annual income and commissioned Beaune artisans to complete the project.
The Hotel-Dieu, or Hospice, with its gothic facades and beautifully tiled roof, is today considered a jewel of medieval architecture. From the Middle Ages to the 20th century the Hotel-Dieu was used as a hospital for the poor. In 1971 the actual hospital was closed, but the retirement home, on the hospital grounds, is still functional.
Since Beaune is the wine capital of the area, we could not leave without doing a wine tasting. Apparently the wines from the region are very good since several members of the group brought cases of wine to be shipped home.
Out last day on the boat. We arrived in Vandenesse, a quiet village near the summit of the canal. After lunch we visited the medieval village and castle of Chateauneuf en Auxois, once an outpost of the Dukes of Burgundy. I could see where it would be an important military post ---- from the castle there are spectacular views of the surrounding countryside.
We returned to the Litote for our farewell dinner. Raoul, our chef, outdid himself with salmon baked in a salt crust and the most wonderful Crème Boule I have ever tasted. It’s understandable why no one wanted to leave!
We said our goodbyes to the wonderful crew and headed to the train station in Dijon. The first of the transportation strikes had started the day before, but we managed to get seats on one of the few high-speed trains still traveling to Paris.
The week had been magical. I truly love barging. It’s such a wonderful way to see the countryside up close and personal. I so enjoyed bicycling through the villages and just walking along the towpath. The people, the food, the wine, the location --- all perfect. I highly recommend a barge vacation in France. Hmmm --- I wonder if barging in Holland, England or Germany is the same ---- I’ll just have to find out for myself!
FRANCE: Barging through Burgundy #1
We had four wonderful days in Normandy and believe me, no one wanted to leave the Chateau . It really is a fairytale castle and a fun “home base” when traveling in the Normandy area.
We traveled to Paris and did a short city tour prior to catching the train to Dijon for our barge trip down the Burgundy Canal. I hadn’t been to Paris for many years. My memories of trying to drive around the Arc de Triumph came flashing back and I immediately broke out in a cold sweat. Actually, once you park your car in Paris, you are fine and I was looking forward to spending the weekend in Paris after the barge trip.
The TVG high-speed train was terrific; very modern and quite comfortable. And fast --- we were in Dijon in an hour and forty minutes. Madelaine met us at the station in Dijon and from the very beginning won our hearts. She is absolutely charming with the most delightful French accent. Madelaine wore many hats, but her main job was that of bus driver, historian and guide. Madelaine followed the barge and when it was time for an excursion, history lessons or wine tasting, there was Madelaine with her ever-friendly smile.
I will admit, when I first saw the Litote, I was a bit apprehensive. I had never been on a barge before and I didn’t know quite what to expect. It was smaller than I anticipated, but once you understand the logistics of going through locks (47 on our section of the canal), you understand why the sizes of barges on the Burgundy Canal vary very little.
The staff greeted us enthusiastically and invited us into “the living room” for a glass of champagne and to meet the crew. Talk about feeling old! I think the oldest crewmember may have been 30, and that’s stretching it!!
Even the chef, with his credentials from a prestigious cooking school in Paris, was in his late 20s. Its obvious that age has nothing to do with service, nor the preparation of fabulous meals. Everything was beyond wonderful. I’m getting ahead of my story.
Once the staff was introduced and our itinerary discussed, we were shown to our rooms. I think the only adjectives that truly fit are small, compact and quaint. Because of the locks, barges are restricted to a certain length--- the only way to get larger rooms are to have fewer cabins. In all honesty, the size of the cabins was more than adequate and the shower in the bathroom was great, equaling that of showers of any cruise ship I have been on before. Maybe not as large, but equally as good.
Once the introductions were over the barge started down the canal toward the small village of Plombieres, where we docked for the night. It was wonderful. The trees were veiled in their fall colors and hues of red, yellow and gold stood out against the bright blue sky. Several of us got off the barge after the first lock and walked past three more locks --- and had to wait for the barge to catch up. I do everything at hyper speed --- I’m definitely a type A personality. This was a new and enjoyable experience.
Dinners on the barge were a pure joy. All the meals were good, but dinners were wonderful, fun and educational. The chef was always present to tell us the dinner menu as we sat down at tables laden with china, crystal and freshly cut flowers. Then came the wine expert (we got to know Sophie very well) to talk about the selected wines, all from the Burgundy region, and how they complimented each course. At the end of the meals came the “cheese connoisseur,” usually Chelsea, to explain our cheese selection, always three and always mile to strong and all from the Burgundy region. Hey, I said dinner was educational. If you need help choosing the right type of cheeses, from mild to stinky, give me a call!!!
Our fist excursion was to the Chateau Clos de Vougeot, a monastic winery dating from medieval times and the present headquarters of the Brotherhood of Knights of the Vine. These people are very serious about their wines. According to the young man who guided us through the buildings with beautiful old, but still functioning, wine presses and sellers, the monks from the local abbey actually worked the vineyards from the 12thCentury until their confiscation in 1790 during the French Revolution. The Cistercian monks, in the early 12th Century, held international gatherings at the chateau to promote peaceful relationships and mutual understanding among the people growing the vines. Eight centuries later the same Clos de Vougeot has become a focal point of modern day Chevaliers. The Chateau du Clos de Vougeot, totally renovated and modernized, is now designated as a French historical monument and holds yearly conferences for Chevaliers from around the world.
We returned to the barge for lunch, another glorious meal, and set “sail” for the village of Fleurey de Ouche, a traditional French village with charming old houses. After lunch several of set out on bicycles and followed the towpath along the canal. Exploring the village on bikes was fun, plus the exercise helped work off the calories from lunch!!!!
We traveled to Paris and did a short city tour prior to catching the train to Dijon for our barge trip down the Burgundy Canal. I hadn’t been to Paris for many years. My memories of trying to drive around the Arc de Triumph came flashing back and I immediately broke out in a cold sweat. Actually, once you park your car in Paris, you are fine and I was looking forward to spending the weekend in Paris after the barge trip.
The TVG high-speed train was terrific; very modern and quite comfortable. And fast --- we were in Dijon in an hour and forty minutes. Madelaine met us at the station in Dijon and from the very beginning won our hearts. She is absolutely charming with the most delightful French accent. Madelaine wore many hats, but her main job was that of bus driver, historian and guide. Madelaine followed the barge and when it was time for an excursion, history lessons or wine tasting, there was Madelaine with her ever-friendly smile.
I will admit, when I first saw the Litote, I was a bit apprehensive. I had never been on a barge before and I didn’t know quite what to expect. It was smaller than I anticipated, but once you understand the logistics of going through locks (47 on our section of the canal), you understand why the sizes of barges on the Burgundy Canal vary very little.
The staff greeted us enthusiastically and invited us into “the living room” for a glass of champagne and to meet the crew. Talk about feeling old! I think the oldest crewmember may have been 30, and that’s stretching it!!
Even the chef, with his credentials from a prestigious cooking school in Paris, was in his late 20s. Its obvious that age has nothing to do with service, nor the preparation of fabulous meals. Everything was beyond wonderful. I’m getting ahead of my story.
Once the staff was introduced and our itinerary discussed, we were shown to our rooms. I think the only adjectives that truly fit are small, compact and quaint. Because of the locks, barges are restricted to a certain length--- the only way to get larger rooms are to have fewer cabins. In all honesty, the size of the cabins was more than adequate and the shower in the bathroom was great, equaling that of showers of any cruise ship I have been on before. Maybe not as large, but equally as good.
Once the introductions were over the barge started down the canal toward the small village of Plombieres, where we docked for the night. It was wonderful. The trees were veiled in their fall colors and hues of red, yellow and gold stood out against the bright blue sky. Several of us got off the barge after the first lock and walked past three more locks --- and had to wait for the barge to catch up. I do everything at hyper speed --- I’m definitely a type A personality. This was a new and enjoyable experience.
Dinners on the barge were a pure joy. All the meals were good, but dinners were wonderful, fun and educational. The chef was always present to tell us the dinner menu as we sat down at tables laden with china, crystal and freshly cut flowers. Then came the wine expert (we got to know Sophie very well) to talk about the selected wines, all from the Burgundy region, and how they complimented each course. At the end of the meals came the “cheese connoisseur,” usually Chelsea, to explain our cheese selection, always three and always mile to strong and all from the Burgundy region. Hey, I said dinner was educational. If you need help choosing the right type of cheeses, from mild to stinky, give me a call!!!
Our fist excursion was to the Chateau Clos de Vougeot, a monastic winery dating from medieval times and the present headquarters of the Brotherhood of Knights of the Vine. These people are very serious about their wines. According to the young man who guided us through the buildings with beautiful old, but still functioning, wine presses and sellers, the monks from the local abbey actually worked the vineyards from the 12thCentury until their confiscation in 1790 during the French Revolution. The Cistercian monks, in the early 12th Century, held international gatherings at the chateau to promote peaceful relationships and mutual understanding among the people growing the vines. Eight centuries later the same Clos de Vougeot has become a focal point of modern day Chevaliers. The Chateau du Clos de Vougeot, totally renovated and modernized, is now designated as a French historical monument and holds yearly conferences for Chevaliers from around the world.
We returned to the barge for lunch, another glorious meal, and set “sail” for the village of Fleurey de Ouche, a traditional French village with charming old houses. After lunch several of set out on bicycles and followed the towpath along the canal. Exploring the village on bikes was fun, plus the exercise helped work off the calories from lunch!!!!
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