ISRAEL #7: High Atop Mount Masada

The initial planning for the trip to Israel in December, 2008, actually started 13 years ago when Bill and Marjorie Handel became the proud parents of twin daughters, Barbara Leah Handel and Pamela Joelle Handel. It was an auspicious occasion in the Handel household and both Bill and Marjorie were committed to give the girls an understanding and appreciation of their Jewish heritage, not only within their family, but also through education.The girls have attended a religious school since the age of three and before their 13h birthday became a B’not Mitzvah (plural for Bat Mitzvah). According to Jewish law, when children reach the age of majority (generally thirteen years for boys and twelve to thirteen for girls) they become responsible for their actions, and "become a Bar or Bat Mitzvah.” In most Conservative and Reform synagogues, girls celebrate their Bat Mitzvahs at age 13, as do the boys. Prior to this, the child's parents are responsible for the child's adherence to Jewish law and tradition, and after this age, children bear their own responsibility for Jewish ritual law, traditions, and ethics and are privileged to participate in all areas of Jewish community life. The term Bat Mitzvah literally translates to “daughter of Commandment” and implies “responsible female.”

Even though Barbara and Pamela celebrated this important event with a religious service and party in May, celebrating with family and friends in December atop Mount Masada, in Israel, took on special significance.“After the destruction of the Temple in 70 CE, hundreds of Jewish refugees escaped from Jerusalem and fled to King Herod`s abandoned fortress-palace atop Mount Masada, near the Dead Sea. For three years, the refugees, known as "the Zealots," lived, farmed and prospered atop the mountain, taunting the Roman besiegers from its summit. When the Romans finally breached the refugees` stronghold in the year 73 CE, they discovered that 970 men, women and children had taken their own lives rather than becoming slaves. Masada was excavated in 1964 and has become one of Israel`s most prominent and most visited sites. For Israelis and for post-Holocaust Jews everywhere, it is a symbol of Israel`s self-reliance and determination that such atrocities will "never again" be committed against the Jewish people. Bat Mitzvah ceremonies atop Masada are held in the remains of the Zealots` Synagogue, arguably the world`s oldest synagogue still in use.”Joining Barbara and Pamela for the ceremony were Stacie and Zoe Kellner, long time friends of the Handel family. Stacie, Zoe’s mother, decided to learn Hebrew and study to become a Bat Mitzvah with a group of other women at her synagogue just last year. Zoe also became a Bat Mitzvah last year with the traditional service and party.

We left Jerusalem early in the morning to be atop Mount Masada by 8:00am. The rabbi met us on top and after a brief discussion with the families began the service. The setting was wonderful and profound. The rabbi told the story of Masada and related it to present day circumstances. Barbara, Pamela, Zoe and Stacie each read from the Torah, and related their personal reasons for wanting to celebrate their Bat Mitzvah in Israel.

As I sat in the audience I felt immense pride in the responsible young women they have each become and their dedication to the Jewish community around the world. It also brought back memories of my daughters, Heather and Erin, as they celebrated their own Bat Mitzvahs many years ago. At the end of the service there were hugs and kisses all around and then off we went to tour Masada. What a wonderful way to start the morning.
The site of Masada was identified in 1842 and extensively excavated in 1964 by an expedition led by Israeli archeologist Yigael Yadin. Due to the remoteness from human habitation and its arid environment, the site has remained largely untouched by humans or nature during the past two millennia. The Roman ramp still stands on the western side and can be climbed by foot. Many of the ancient buildings have been restored from their remains, as have the wall-paintings of Herod's two main palaces, and the Roman-style bathhouses that he built.The synagogue, storehouses, and houses of the Jewish rebels have also been identified and restored. Inside the synagogue, an ostracon bearing the inscription Me'aser Kohen (title for the priest) was found, as were fragments of two scrolls. Archaeologist Yigael Yadin's excavations have so far uncovered the remains of 28 people at Masada. The remains of three people, a male 20-22 years of age, a female 17-18 and a child approximately 12 years old, were found in the palace and the remains of 25 people were found in a cave at the base of the cliff. Carbon dating of textiles found with the remains in the cave indicate that they are contemporaneous with the period of the Revolt. All the remains were reburied at Masada with full military honours on July 7, 1969.No Bar or Bat Mitzvah celebration would be complete without some type of party, and this was no exception. Last year, when I toured Israel prior to Heather’s wedding, I stayed at the Crown Plaza Hotel in Ein Bokek, a small resort town on the Dead Sea, quite close to Masada. Bill and Marjorie hosted a luncheon at the hotel, not quite as elaborate as the dinner they had in Los Angeles last May, to thank everyone for joining the Handel family for this very special celebration.We then spent the afternoon “playing” and “floating” in the Dead Sea.It was a wonderful afternoon and a great way to end this very special and memorable day.Join me next week as we leave Israel and start our adventures in Egypt.

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ISRAEL #6 : Exploring Jerusalem

The old city of Jerusalem is divided into four “neighborhoods,” which are named by the ethnic affiliation of the people living in them: the Arab or Muslim Quarter, the Jewish Quarter, the Christian Quarter and the Armenian Quarter. The entire area of the Old City is only one square kilometer (less than half mile square). This alone should be a testament that people with different beliefs can live together peacefully!!

Our first day in Jerusalem was spent mostly in the Arab and Christian Quarters exploring the narrow streets and alleyways and walking the Via Dolorosa (the Fourteen Stations of the Cross, which is said to trace the last steps of Jesus Christ). My knowledge of both the Old and New Testament is limited, but I love all the biblical stories and seeing places mentioned in either version of the bible. It is thrilling, and for many, quite emotional.

The next day was another full day in the Old City of Jerusalem. This time, we entered through Dung Gate, into the Jewish Quarter. The Western Wall, or Kotel, in Hebrew, is part of the remaining wall of the Temple Mount built by Herod the Great, and is one of the most sacred places of worship for all Jews from around the world.In the 1800’s, Jerusalem scholars were already trying to determine the length and measurements of the Western Wall and learn more about the construction. However, not until after the Six-Day War in 1967, did archeologists begin the project of exposing the entire length of the Western Wall. Almost 30 years later (1996), the tunnels were opened to the public revealing a stretch of the wall more than 1000 feet long, exactly as constructed by Herod. It’s amazing when you realize you are walking on the original pavement of the Second Temple period (537 BCE – 70CE).Before leaving the Old City for other parts of Jerusalem, Shmul, our guide, walked us over to the Cardo with a stern warning--no shopping today!! The Cardo was Jerusalem’s main thoroughfare in the Byzantine era. The stone street was originally laid by the Romans, and then extended in the 4th century as Christian pilgrims began to flock to Jerusalem.Today, the Cardo is a high-end shopping area featuring art galleries, jewelry stores and gift shops.It was difficult, but we heeded Shmul’s words and did not shop, concentrating on the historical significance of where we were standing!

As we were leaving the Jewish Quarter we made a brief stop at the Davidson Center and the Southern Wall Excavations, considered to be one of the most important archaeological sites in all of Jerusalem.To date, excavations have uncovered remains dating back to the First and Second Temple periods through Byzantine times to the Omayyad era. The Davidson Center presents a multi-media introduction to the site and provides a perspective to the ongoing excavations.

Next on our agenda was Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Memorial that commemorates the six million Jewish men, women and children murdered by the Nazis and their collaborators during the years 1933-1945.Many years ago, on my first trip to Israel, I visited Yad Vashem-- a one-room memorial spotlighting the different concentration camps and the number of people killed in each. Today, Yad Vashem is by far the most comprehensive Holocaust Memorial I have visited anywhere in the world, and, the most emotional. Yad Vashem tells a story of life in Europe from the turn of the century through WWII. The exhibits, the multi-media presentations, the photographs and the videotaped testimonies of survivors are incredible. Once you begin the tour there is no going back --you’re caught in a wave of people, twisting and turning following the displays, much like the Jews were caught on their way to the death chambers.

Yad Vashem also commemorates the heroism and fortitude of the Jewish partisans and the fighters in the Ghetto revolts as well as the non-Jews who saved the lives of many Jews. The Avenue and Gardens of the Righteous Among the Nations
honors thousands of non-Jews “who acted according to the most noble principles of humanity and risked their lives to help Jews during the Holocaust.”

We had three hours at Yad Vashem and it wasn’t enough time. Before leaving the complex, Shmul made sure we all visited the Children’s Memorial. He said it shouldn’t be missed, and he was right. It’s unique--“hollowed out from an underground cavern, it is a tribute to the approximately 1.5 million Jewish children who perished during the Holocaust.” Memorial candles, a customary Jewish tradition to remember the dead, are reflected infinitely by mirrors in a dark open space, creating an impression of millions of stars shining in the sky. The names of the children, their ages and countries of origin are recited in the background. It’s a somber reminder of mans’ inhumanity to man.

In the same vein is the marvelous bronze of a man in the midst of children. The name of the sculpture is The Hero and it depicts Dr. Janusz Korczak, a physician in an orphanage in the Warsaw ghetto, who chose to stay with the children when they were deported to the death camp at Treblinka and perished alongside them.Beside the sculpture stands a sign that reads: "Greater love hath no man than this, that a man lay down his life for his friends (John 15:13).

After lunch we headed for our final stop of the day, Bethlehem. Shmul, an Israeli citizen, could not go with us into Bethlehem since it is in Palestinian territory. He brought us to the border where we boarded another bus with a Palestinian driver and guide and drove into Bethlehem.

From looking at all the souvenir shops and taxi drivers, I would guess Bethlehem’s economy is based on tourism.Our guide, Mohamed, was fluent in English and was excited to learn we came from the Los Angeles area. He had a cousin living in San Diego and had heard wonderful things about California. We reached the Church of the Nativity and were then turned over to another guide, who escorted us into the church.

Situated on Manger Square, approximately 5 miles from Jerusalem, the church is built over a grotto where the Virgin Mary is said to have given birth to Jesus.According to our guide, the church's large fortress-like exterior stands as a testament to its turbulent history. For centuries, it was one of the most fought over holy places. It was seized and defended by a succession of armies - including Muslim and Crusader forces. It is now controlled jointly by three Christian denominations - the Armenian Church, the Roman Catholic Church and the Greek Orthodox Church.

The first Church was built over the Grotto of the Nativity in the 4th century AD under the patronage of Emperor Constantine's mother Helena, but it was later destroyed. In the 6th century, Byzantine Emperor Justinian built a new and more elaborate church on the site, and the present structure is basically the same as it was then.

The Altar of the Nativity sits below a silver and gold chandelier.A stairway on the right side of the altar leads down into the Grotto of the Nativity, said to be the site of Jesus’ birth; a 14-point silver star embedded in white marble marks the exact spot.The star was installed by the Catholic Church in 1717, removed by the Greeks in 1847 and replaced by the Turkish government in 1853, and bears the inscription, Hic de Virgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est – “Here Jesus Christ was born to the Virgin Mary.” Of the 15 lamps burning around the recess, six belong to the Greeks, five to the Armenians and four to the Roman Catholics. In another corner of the grotto, down three steps opposite the Altar of the Nativity is the Chapel of the Manger where Christ was laid.The tour was good. Our guide certainly knew his history and the bible. Once we were upstairs, he showed us the different churches and then escorted us outside to our waiting driver, Mohamed, to take us back to the border. I kept wondering, with all the souvenir shops and a captive audience, why weren’t we stopping. I didn’t have long to wait. We stopped at a shop off the beaten path owned by one of the few remaining Christian families (the majority of the population in Bethlehem is now Muslim). It was a nice store and I’m happy to report our group helped out the slumping economy in Bethlehem. It was a week before Christmas and we definitely made their holidays a little brighter.It had been a long day. I was happy when we crossed the border back into Jerusalem. I think we could spend an entire month in Jerusalem and not see all there is to see. Join me next week on Masada as we celebrate the B’not Mitzvah of Barbara and Pamela Handel, Stacie and Zoe Kellner.

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ISRAEL #5: Jerusalem, the Heart and Soul of Israel

Jerusalem is the heart and soul of Israel. Jerusalem--a holy city to three faiths, Judaism, Christianity and Islam. Jerusalem--the capital of the State of Israel, its seat of government, and the holiest city in Judaism. It is also Israel's largest and most populated city.

Since 1004 BCE, when King David established Jerusalem as the capital of his kingdom, there has been a continuous Jewish presence in Jerusalem. Following the building of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and the designation of other holy sites by Constantine the Great in 333 CE, Jerusalem became a destination of Christian pilgrimages. During Umayyad rule from 661 to 750 CE, the Dome of the Rock and the Al Aqsa Mosque were built on the site where the Jewish Temples had once stood, and Jerusalem became the third holiest city in Islam.

As we drove into Jerusalem, I had fond memories of my trip last year for my daughter's wedding: Attending an Orthodox Jewish Wedding. As we stood high on Mt. Scopus, overlooking the city, I was excited to be back and couldn’t wait to take the group to the Old City, the heart of Jerusalem.

We drove into the center of town, checked into our hotel and took off on foot to the Old City. Our plan this afternoon was to follow the Via Dolorosa, the route Christians believe Jesus traveled carrying the cross from his trial to the place of his crucifixion, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, revered by Christians as the site of the death, burial and resurrection of Jesus Christ. The Via Dolorosa, better known as the Twelve Stations of the Cross, winds through the Old City starting in the Arab Quarter. Here is a picture of the Fourteenth Station.Today, the Old City is divided into four neighborhoods, which are named by the ethnic affiliation of the people that live in them: the Arab or Muslim Quarter, the Jewish Quarter, the Christian Quarter and the Armenian Quarter. The entire area of the Old City is one square kilometer (not even a half mile square).Over the centuries the Church of the Holy Sepulcher was destroyed and rebuilt several times. The building that stands today dates back to the 12th century and according to our guide, Shmul, is zealously guarded by four different religious denominations: the Greek Orthodox, the Roman Catholics, Armenians and Copts (members of the Coptic Church--mostly Egyptian Christians.)What I found fascinating is that due to the squabbling of the different religions, which unfortunately is still going on today, “the key to the church” was entrusted to a Muslim family. Nine centuries later, the 10-inch metal key is still safeguarded by the Nuseibeh family. Every morning at dawn Wajeeh Nuseibeh, who took over the job of doorkeeper from his father 25 years ago, picks up the key and opens the church doors. At 8:00 pm, he returns and locks them. I love stories like this. It’s part of the magic of traveling to so many different countries and learning about so many different cultures. I’m a real whiz at Jeopardy!We continued walking through the narrow alleyways of the Arab Quarter lined with shops selling all types of souvenirs from scarves for head coverings, to wood carvings, jewelry, pottery and lots of religious paraphernalia. It was hard not to stop, but it was harder getting out of the shops--bargaining is definitely a way of life in the Old City.It’s obvious when you come to the Jewish Quarter, all foot traffic stops and all your packages, purses, etc. are x-rayed and you walk through a metal detector, just like at an airport. We walked through the Jewish Quarter, past the Cardo, which was a Byzantine Road, roughly the equivalent of an eight-lane highway that ran through the heart of the city. Next we entered a large plaza and then we were, in front of the Western Wall and looking at the gold dome of The Temple Mount. It’s a remarkable sight.When Rome destroyed the Second Temple in 70 C.E., only one outer wall remained standing. The Romans probably would have destroyed that also, but since it was not part of the actual Temple itself, they thought it was insignificant. For the Jews however, this remnant of what was the most sacred building in the Jewish world quickly became the holiest spot in Jewish life. For centuries, Jews throughout the world traveled to Palestine and immediately headed for the Kotel (The Western Wall) to thank God. The prayers offered at the Kotel were so heartfelt that non-Jews began calling the site the “Wailing Wall.”

The area around the wall is open 24 hours and is usually filled with worshippers. The Wall is divided by a fence, with a small area for women on one side, and a much larger area for men on the other. If you go up close to the Wall you’ll notice rolled up pieces of paper stuck into the Wall--these are messages and prayers that people write and put into the Wall, hoping their prayers will be answered.

Standing by the Western Wall is an awesome experience. Tourists from around the world still flock there, mingling with the pious and truly religious. The men in black coats with their wide, black rimmed hats and payot (side curls), standing next to the Israeli soldier, gun slung over his shoulder, standing next to the tourist wearing shorts is quite a sight to see.

Several women in our group walked over to the women’s side, with our own rolled up pieces of paper, to place them alongside the hundreds of other prayers and wishes fervently placed there by women from around the world. It felt good being back in Jerusalem.

Join me next week as we continue our tour of Jerusalem including Yad Vashem (the Holocaust Memorial), the Garden of Gethsemane, Bethlehem and the Israel Museum where the Dead Sea Scrolls are on exhibit.

ISRAEL #4: Back to Biblical Times at the Sea of Galilee

After a long day of “playing tourist” we arrived in Tiberias in the early evening ready for dinner and a good night’s sleep. Tiberias is the largest town on the Sea of Galilee and is considered a resort town with a main shopping area, lots of small restaurants, several hotels and lakeside beaches. It’s amazing how a little time for shopping and wandering can revitalize the spirit!In the morning we boarded our boat for the requisite ride across the lake. Actually, the Sea of Galilee (also called Lake Tiberias) is Israel’s chief source of water fed by the Jordan River to the north. Since biblical times the lake has been famous for its abundance of fish. Many of Jesus’ disciples were fisherman here, and he did much of his preaching by its shores. No respectable “tourist” could visit the area without having the famous local fare for lunch--St. Peter’s Fish.

After crossing the lake we headed north toward the infamous Golan Heights. The Israeli Army has a definite presence on the Golan. We climbed up to a bluff overlooking the valley below--to one side is Syria, the other Lebanon. It’s eerie to look at the Syrian boarder (with a pair of binoculars) and see their boarder patrol looking back at you.On our way back south toward Capernaum, we took a short detour for the wine lovers in the group --- a tour and wine tasting at the Yarden Winery. Yarden has two large wineries in the Golan and exports quality kosher wines worldwide. The wine tasting was fun, even at 11:00 in the morning.Capernaum, a town first mentioned in the New Testament, is reported to have been the home of the apostles Peter, Andrew, James, John and Matthew, and where Jesus went after leaving Nazareth. According to biblical history, Capernaum was inhabited from 150 BCE to about AD 750 and was considered a large fishing village and busy trading center on the Sea of Galilee. The ancient city of Capernaum was abandoned about a thousand years ago, but was rediscovered by archaeologists in the late 1800’s. Today it is a major archeological site and is reported to have actually been the home of Jesus himself. According to Luke, "Jesus taught in the synagogue in Capernaum," and a building, which may have been a synagogue of that period, has been found beneath the remains of a later synagogue.We left Capernaum, with our stomachs rumbling, for lunch --- St. Peter’s Fish, at a local seaside restaurant. I remember ordering the fish on my last trip to Israel in 2007 and complaining about the number of small bones. The common name for the fish is musht or tilapia. This time I asked the waiter to fillet the fish--it made no difference, it was still full of bones.

After lunch we continued our drive around the lake. Many in our group, well versed in the New Testament, were enthralled as we drove along the lake shore and stopped in the towns of Magdala, the home of Mary Magdalene and Tabgha, the traditional site of the Multiplication of the Fishes and Loaves. Not far from Tabgha is the Mount of Beatitudes, where Jesus preached the Sermon on the Mount. Israel is really a very small country geographically: only 150 miles from north to south, 28 miles wide at the Sea of Galilee and 54 miles west to east at the Dead Sea. When you look at a map, all the towns, Nazareth, Capernaum, Tabgha, Magdala and Yardenit are probably not more than 10 miles apart.Shmul actually let us sleep in--our wake-up call was 7:00,on the bus by 8:00. We were heading for Jerusalem, with several stops on the way. Our first stop was Beit Shean, considered by many to be the best-preserved Roman-Byzantine city in Israel. First inhabited 5,000 year ago, it became the most important city between Mesopotamia and the Mediterranean during the Egyptian occupation. Falling to the Philistines in the 11th century BCE, it then became part of Solomon’s kingdom. After the conquest of Alexander the Great it was renamed Scythopolis, and became a flourishing Hellenistic city. In the 1st century BCE the Romans reined over Scythopolis. The Roman conquest brought Scythopolis to new heights and economic importance under the Byzantines, becoming one of the 10 city-states of the Decapolis and a major center for Christianity. An economic collapse, then an earthquake in AD 740, brought an end to one of the most prosperous civilizations along the Mediterranean.

The site is amazing. It’s hard to believe some of the structures date back 5,000 years. I can’t imagine anything we build today could last 500 years, let along 5,000 years--earthquake or no earthquake.

We continued heading south to Qumran, best known as the place where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered. In 150 BCE to AD 68 Qumran was the home of a radically ascetic and reclusive community known as the Essenes who believed the arrival of the Jewish Messiah was imminent and spent their days fasting and participating in purification rituals. The Essenes largely vanished from history until 1947 when a Bedouin shepherd boy, looking for a lost goat happened upon a cave full of jars. These jars contained a precious hoard of 190 linen-wrapped scrolls that had been preserved for over 2,000 years. Today some of the Dead Sea Scrolls, thought to contain the oldest existing version of biblical scriptures, are on exhibit in the Israel Museum in Jerusalem. The story of how the scrolls were reconstructed is definitely worth a visit to the museum.
We arrived in Jerusalem in the afternoon--a breathtaking sight from high atop Mount Scopus. The Dome of the Rock shines brightly in the afternoon sun. Join me next week as we begin our exploration of Jerusalem.

ISRAEL #3: Sightseeing Adventures

This is the third article on my trip to Israel and Egypt with Bill and Marjorie Handel and their family and friends in December, 2008.

Israel is really an extraordinary country. There is so much to do and see, so many temples and archeological sites that represent many different religions, there never seems to be enough time to see it all. One of the best things about having your “own group” is the itinerary can be changed, and that’s exactly what happened when we left Haifa on our way to Nazareth. We had been “on the go” from morning ‘til night (Marjorie hates the thought of missing anything!) and Shmul, our guide, sensed we needed a break from archeological digs and antiquities.

We left Haifa in the early morning and made a quick stop at the site of the beautiful Persian Gardens at the Baha’i World Center, the headquarters of the Baha’i Faith. The gardens are magnificent and have become a landmark and tourist attraction in Haifa.We then headed north, up the Mediterranean coast, to see the famed grottoes of Rosh HaNikra, located on the boarder of Israel and Lebanon.

The Rosh HaNikra grottoes are cavernous tunnels formed by the action of the sea slamming against the soft chalk rock for thousands of years.At one time the only access to the grottoes was from the sea, but in1968, a tunnel was dug from the shore to the natural grottoes. The tunnel was constructed slightly above the sea surface. A cable car now descends to the shoreline where visitors can explore the grottoes.
The grottoes are wonderful. We took the cable car down, which offered a spectacular panoramic view of Haifa Bay, the hills of the Galilee and the Mediterranean. Apparently winter is the best time to explore the grottoes when the wave action from the sea is the most intense. We made our way through the tunnels, got wet more than once, and took lots of pictures.Since we were right on the Lebanese border, we walked over and talked to several Israeli soldiers on boarder patrol and even managed a picture or two.
We then headed northwest to Nazareth, considered one of the most important Christian sites in the Holy Land. In the New Testament, Nazareth is known as the boyhood home of Jesus and has been an important Christian pilgrimage site since the 4th century. Today, Nazareth is an Arab city with a population of 60,000, mostly Muslim.Our first stop was the Basilica of the Annunciation; a modern Catholic Church built over the remains of Byzantine and Crusader churches, and considered the traditional site of Gabriel’s announcement to Mary that she would give birth to the savior. According to biblical historians, the cave that is enshrined inside the basilica was identified no later than the 4th century as the place of the Annunciation. It is not known when the first church was built here, but one probably existed by the early 4th century.As we walked back to the bus, our guide pointed out Mary’s Well, now located in the center of downtown Nazareth, on the main road.The Well is positioned over an underground spring that served for centuries as a local water source for the local Arab villagers. Renovated twice, once in 1967 and again in 2000, the current structure is a symbolic representation of the structure that once was in use.

Our final destination that afternoon was Tiberius on the Sea of Galilee. Along the way, we visited the town of Safed, best known, in ancient times, as one of the four holy cities of the Talmud (Jerusalem, Hebron and Tiberius are the others). Today it remains an important center for Jewish religious studies, but is also well known for its Artist’s Quarter. In the narrow streets and alleys between the area’s picturesque houses, there are many shops and galleries where artists display their paintings, sculptures, woodcarvings and jewelry.By this time, Shmul knew our group well; so before he showed us the Artist’s Quarters (where we could shop), we walked through the old city to the Synagogue Quarter to visit Abuhav Synagogue, built in the 16th century and named after Rabbi Yitzchak Abuhav, a renowned 15th century Spanish Rabbi and Kabbalist.
The bima (the pulpit) stands at the center of the synagogue and the benches for the congregation are arranged around it, as was customary in ancient synagogues. The interior of the synagogue dome is decorated with depictions of musical instruments that were used in the Temple in Jerusalem and symbols of the tribes of Israel.Finally, a time to shop. Shmul actually gave us an hour of free time to wander through the narrow streets and wonderful shops and galleries. Marjorie Handel bought an unusual Chanukah Menorah and I bought a unique mezuzah made from a tree branch for my house.

We arrived in Tiberius in the late afternoon and made one last stop at a museum near Kibbutz Nof Ginnosar to see “the Jesus Boat”. I visited the museum when I was in Israel in 2007 and insisted it be included in the tour this year. The story of the “Jesus Boat” is wonderful.
A harsh summer in 1985 and a lack of rainfall in the fall of that year created a drought in Israel. Water was pumped from the Sea of Galilee to irrigate parched fields. As the water flowed south, the level of the lake took a nosedive creating vast expanses of mud flats. While of great concern to Israel's residents, for whom the lake serves as a primary source of fresh water, the disaster proved a boom for archaeologists.

Late in January 1986, between the ancient harbors of Gennosar and Magdala, two brothers, Moshe and Yuval Lufan, discovered a faint oval outline of a boat in the muddy lake bed. As one brother later explained: "It was little more than a curving arc of wood, flush with the surface of the ground, but we immediately realized that this was the uppermost plank of a boat that was entirely buried by the mud."

Before the water level returned to normal, it was cleared of mud, enclosed in polyurethane foam and floated across the Sea of Galilee, to be placed in a conservation pool at the kibbutz's recently completed Yigal Allon museum. Conservation treatment of the boat consisted of impregnation with a special wax material for 9 1/2 years. In 1995, the pool was drained and the boat was revealed.

According to Carbon 14 dating, the so-called "Jesus Boat" was constructed in about 40 BC and was in use into the 1st century AD. During this period, the lakeside communities witnessed the ministry of Jesus and the unrest of the Jews under Roman control. The Jewish historian of the period, Flavius Josephus, described a fierce sea battle between the Jewish rebels of Magdala and the Roman legions in 67 AD in which the Jews were crushed and the beaches "were thick with wrecks." The boat was probably sunk at this time.

The boat is 26 1/2 feet long, 7 1/2 feet wide and 4 1/2 feet high, and it was probably of the Sea of Galilee's largest class of ships. Apparently, a master craftsman built it to last. It was made with different kinds of wood taken from other boats. First, the outside planks were assembled with mortise and tenon joints, then the frames or ribs were nailed inside. Its fore and aft sections were most likely decked and it probably had a mast, meaning it could be both sailed and rowed. Studies of ancient ships suggest this vessel had a crew of five (four rowers and a helmsman). Flavius Josephus referred to such ships holding 15 people. Skeletal remains from Galilee during this period indicate males averaged 5 feet 5 inches tall and about 140 pounds. Therefore it was large enough to accommodate Jesus and his 12 disciples.

Join me next week as we visit Capernaum, the Mount of Beatitudes and the Golan Heights.