We had spent three exciting days in Hanoi and were now on our way to Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage site 100 miles east of Hanoi in the Gulf of Tonkin. In all honesty, it was nice to leave the noise and congestion of the city behind and have a leisurely three-hour drive through the countryside.
Along the way we passed lots of rice paddies and small villages. It was a scene right out of a National Geographic special: water buffalo plowing the fields and workers, with conical hats, knee-deep in the paddies planting rice. Along the way, we stopped at a roadside fruit stand for some freshly cut pineapple. It was sweet and juicy. One of my favorite pictures is of a man riding a motor scooter with three pigs tied to the back seat. They were obviously on their way to market and, judging by their squeals, were not at all happy about the prospect.
We arrived at noon and boarded the Emeraude, a small passenger ship, for an overnight jaunt into Ha Long Bay. After the hectic pace of "playing tourist" the past several days, it was nice to sit and relax on the ship as we sailed into the bay. Beautiful is the only way to describe the multitude of islands and unusual limestone formations jutting out of the clear, emerald-green water of the bay. As Kay Dobbertin so aptly put it, "it's Guilin (China) on steroids!" Indeed, it is the same type of "karst" outcroppings found along the Li River in Guilin. It was very picturesque and we enjoyed watching all the boats with junk sails returning to their floating villages after a day of fishing.
In the late afternoon we docked in a small harbor and went ashore to explore one of the many caves that dot the islands with their elaborate rock formations and numerous stalactites and stalagmites. The cave was huge, the size of several football fields and at least three stories high, or so it seemed with all the climbing we did. The excursion definitely provided our exercise for the day.
The following morning we had time for a tai chi class and breakfast before we docked and returned to Hanoi to catch our flight to Hue. The cruise had been wonderful and an enjoyable way to explore the beauty of Ha Long Bay.
Hue (pronounced way), a small city on the Perfume River in central Vietnam, was the political capital of the country from 1802 to 1945. Over the centuries it has been "caught in the middle" of dynastic turf wars between the Cham people of the south and the Chinese in the north. In 1802 Emperor Gia Long, founder of the Nguyen dynasty, consolidated the country (under French tutelage) after several hundred years of war and established Hue as its capital.
Today, Hue is a quiet town of 330,000 best known for its palaces, temples, pagodas and tombs in and around the city. The first stop on our city tour was the Royal Citadel, built in 1804. Emperor Gia Long modeled the Royal Citadel on the Forbidden City in Beijing, but with a French military influence. Over the years much of the complex fell into disrepair, but several of the buildings are undergoing restoration and, under UN auspices, has been declared a World Heritage site. The highlight of the morning was a visit to the Palace of Supreme Harmony where, serendipitously, we were just in time to see a performance of the music and dance of the Nguyen dynasty. The show was wonderful and I particularly enjoyed the variety of antique string instruments you rarely see outside of Indochina.
We continued our tour of the city, visiting the local market with its interesting displays of fruits, vegetables, fish, poultry, clothing and a variety of household goods. In the U.S. we go to the supermarket, here the residents go to Dong Ba market in Old Hue.
After lunch at a local restaurant, we boarded a boat on the Perfume River to visit the Thien Mu Pagoda and the Tomb of Ming Mang, the best preserved of the Royal Tombs. The Thien Mu Pagoda is actually a Mahayana Buddhist temple and the oldest monastery in Hue, dating back to the 17th century. The complex is park-like with lots of shade trees and places to sit and enjoy the peaceful surroundings. The best-known structure in the complex is the seven-tiered Phuoc Nguyen Tower, built in 1844 to celebrate prosperity.
Back on the boat, we continued up the river to the Tomb of Ming Mang. It was interesting watching the boat traffic on the river. A quick side note about our boat trip: on the boat they had a winning combination - a small "shopping mall" and a captive audience. One by one the young salesgirl approached us with a wonderful smile and showed us merchandise that was "just perfect" for us. She was such a phenomenal saleswoman that by the end of the 45-minute boat ride we were the proud owners of shirts, silk pajamas, watercolor paintings and other Vietnamese "treasures." So if you see Tom Dobbertin, Monte Stuck, Rick Hulbert or John McMunn around town sporting a silk shirt with a Chinese pattern, it most likely was purchased on the Perfume River. The same goes for the women - most of us now own a set of silk pajamas.
The Tomb of Ming Mang (1820 to 1840) is considered the finest of the imperial tombs and the best preserved. Once again, the setting is more like a Chinese garden set among small lakes and shade trees. The feeling, as you walk through, is definitely one of peace and tranquility.
For dinner that evening we had as special treat. We attended a "banquet" presided over by a king and queen. Our own John McMunn took the role of king and Carol Weisenberg, from Laguna, presided as queen. In costumes fit for royalty, we enjoyed local cuisine and were entertained by a group of very talented musicians playing antique string instruments, similar to what we had seen at the Royal Citadel. It was great fun and a nice way to say farewell to Hue.
Showing posts with label Indochina. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Indochina. Show all posts
INDOCHINA: Vietnam: Hoi An, a tourist's delight
Back to Vietnam. The next stop on our Vietnam tour was Hoi An, an ancient port town on the Thu Bon River in central Vietnam. From the 16th to the 18th century, Hoi An was Vietnam's most important port and trading post. Today, the city of Hoi An has become a major tourist attraction with its ancient buildings and traditional architecture, great restaurants and cafes, some of the best deals in Vietnam in custom tailoring and best of all, you can walk around without being bowled over by a motor scooter.
Hoi An has a distinct Chinese atmosphere with low, tile-roofed houses and narrow streets. The Old Quarter, along the waterfront, features well-preserved old houses and pagodas. After crossing the Japanese Covered Bridge, the first stop on our walking tour was the Phung Hung House, the mansion of the Phung Hung family for eight generations. The house is a mixture of Chinese and Japanese design and is decorated with lacquered boards and panels engraved with Chinese characters.
We continued walking through the Old Quarter, visiting the Tran Family Chapel, the Phouk Kien Pagoda - dedicated to Thien Hau, goddess of the sea and patroness of sailors and fishermen - the Chinese Assembly Hall and the Hoi An Historical and Cultural Museum. We ended our walk at the Hoi An Market, which sells everything from larvae to lug wrenches. Similar to the markets in Hanoi and Hue, it's the place for one-stop shopping in Hoi An.
The next morning we were up bright and early for a boat ride on the Thun Bon River. Even though Hoi An is no longer a major trading port, the river still plays a major role in the daily life of Hoi An residents. It was fun watching the boats full of fresh fish and produce pull up to the dock and cargo being transferred from boat to boat and boat to dock. We also watched the fisherman throw their nets and haul in their catch.
We stopped at Cam Kim Island, a village known for woodworking and boat-building. The furniture in the shops was beautiful, but far too large to fit in our suitcases. We walked around the village and watched the children pedaling home from school. The school on the island is overcrowded, so they have two shifts - 7 a.m. to 12 p.m. and 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Our guide, Chong, told us the same problem exists in Hoi An and that schools offer two sessions a day.
We all enjoyed our stay in Hoi An. Leon Schwartz, Rick Hulbert and Kay McMunn all had suits made and Penny Schwartz and Toni Hulbert had jackets made. The town is absolutely charming and far less hectic than Hanoi.
We left Hoi An and headed north to Da Nang for our late afternoon flight to Ho Chi Minh City. It's a beautiful drive along the coast and our first stop was China Beach, made famous during the Vietnam War as a popular destination for American and Australian troops. The beach is lovely and relatively undeveloped. Chong told us that several major hotel chains have expressed an interest in the area and there are rumors of large resorts coming to the region. I have a feeling that, once developed, this will be another Waikiki Beach.
Our stay in Da Nang was limited but we made time to visit the Cham Museum. The museum, established under French rule in 1936 as the Ecole Francaise d'Extreme Orient, houses the world's largest collection of Cham sculpture, sandstone temple decorations and other art. Much of the collection, which includes excellent examples of Hindu and Mahayama Buddhist art from the 4th to the 14th centuries, is displayed in an outdoor setting. The museum was interesting and much of the temple decorations were similar to many we saw on the temples India.
It seemed hard to believe our trip was almost over. Join me next week in Hi Chi Minh City and our visit to the Ci Chi tunnels.
Hoi An has a distinct Chinese atmosphere with low, tile-roofed houses and narrow streets. The Old Quarter, along the waterfront, features well-preserved old houses and pagodas. After crossing the Japanese Covered Bridge, the first stop on our walking tour was the Phung Hung House, the mansion of the Phung Hung family for eight generations. The house is a mixture of Chinese and Japanese design and is decorated with lacquered boards and panels engraved with Chinese characters.
We continued walking through the Old Quarter, visiting the Tran Family Chapel, the Phouk Kien Pagoda - dedicated to Thien Hau, goddess of the sea and patroness of sailors and fishermen - the Chinese Assembly Hall and the Hoi An Historical and Cultural Museum. We ended our walk at the Hoi An Market, which sells everything from larvae to lug wrenches. Similar to the markets in Hanoi and Hue, it's the place for one-stop shopping in Hoi An.
The next morning we were up bright and early for a boat ride on the Thun Bon River. Even though Hoi An is no longer a major trading port, the river still plays a major role in the daily life of Hoi An residents. It was fun watching the boats full of fresh fish and produce pull up to the dock and cargo being transferred from boat to boat and boat to dock. We also watched the fisherman throw their nets and haul in their catch.
We stopped at Cam Kim Island, a village known for woodworking and boat-building. The furniture in the shops was beautiful, but far too large to fit in our suitcases. We walked around the village and watched the children pedaling home from school. The school on the island is overcrowded, so they have two shifts - 7 a.m. to 12 p.m. and 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Our guide, Chong, told us the same problem exists in Hoi An and that schools offer two sessions a day.
We all enjoyed our stay in Hoi An. Leon Schwartz, Rick Hulbert and Kay McMunn all had suits made and Penny Schwartz and Toni Hulbert had jackets made. The town is absolutely charming and far less hectic than Hanoi.
We left Hoi An and headed north to Da Nang for our late afternoon flight to Ho Chi Minh City. It's a beautiful drive along the coast and our first stop was China Beach, made famous during the Vietnam War as a popular destination for American and Australian troops. The beach is lovely and relatively undeveloped. Chong told us that several major hotel chains have expressed an interest in the area and there are rumors of large resorts coming to the region. I have a feeling that, once developed, this will be another Waikiki Beach.
Our stay in Da Nang was limited but we made time to visit the Cham Museum. The museum, established under French rule in 1936 as the Ecole Francaise d'Extreme Orient, houses the world's largest collection of Cham sculpture, sandstone temple decorations and other art. Much of the collection, which includes excellent examples of Hindu and Mahayama Buddhist art from the 4th to the 14th centuries, is displayed in an outdoor setting. The museum was interesting and much of the temple decorations were similar to many we saw on the temples India.
It seemed hard to believe our trip was almost over. Join me next week in Hi Chi Minh City and our visit to the Ci Chi tunnels.
INDOCHINA: Bangkok
We arrived in Bangkok in the early evening, the last stop on our three-week journey through Indochina. I had been to Bangkok more than 30 ago and I was interested to see how much the city has changed.
Like most of the cities we visited on this trip, the changes could be measured by the prosperity of the country - better highways, cranes dotting the skyline for the ongoing building boom, and a growing infrastructure including hotels, restaurants and mass transportation, to accommodate the influx of tourists from around the world. In the case of Indochina, as the countries prospered, so did its citizens - better living conditions, education, cars, motor scooters; all are signs of prosperity.
Bangkok has it all. The telltale signs of prosperity: traffic congestion, road construction and building construction, plus a 100 percent increase in tourism over the past 10 years.
The following morning we set out for a day of sightseeing. Our first stop, the Grand Palace, is the city's most famous landmark. Built in 1782 as the home of the Thai king, it was the royal court and the administrative seat of government for more than 150 years. The kings stopped living in the palace in the early 1900s, but the palace complex is still used for ceremonial events.
Within the palace complex are several temples, including Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), which contains the small and greatly revered Emerald Buddha that dates back to the 14th century. The robes on the Buddha are changed with the seasons by the king of Thailand and is an important ritual in the Buddhist calendar.
Another "must see" within the palace complex is Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha). The largest temple in Bangkok, Wat Pho is most famous for its huge and very majestic reclining Buddha. Talk about making a statement - the Reclining Buddha measures 151 feet long and is covered in gold leaf.
A fitting end to our morning at the Grand Palace was a Thai massage. The traditional Thai massage is more invigorating than relaxing and is supposed to release stress and improve blood circulation. Personally, I prefer the Swedish massage, but it was fun going as a group and listening to the laughs and the moans as the masseuse applied "gentle" pressure in order to relieve muscle and joint tension.
No trip to Bangkok would be complete without a visit to a floating market. Much of Bangkok's history has evolved along the banks of the Chao Praya River. Winding its way through the heart of Bangkok, it continues to play an important part in the daily life of many Bangkok residents. People commute to work on fast-moving river taxis, tourists enjoy the more leisurely pace of sightseeing boats and commerce is ever present as long barges pull heavy loads up and down the river. Our hotel, the Mandarin Oriental (absolutely fabulous), was on the river's edge, which provided great views of all the activity on the river below from our rooms.
There are several floating markets in and around the Bangkok area. When I was in Bangkok 30 years ago the markets were used by the locals to buy fresh fruits and vegetables. Today, the floating markets are more of a tourist attraction, though they still provide an array of fresh fruits and vegetables along with clothing, handicrafts, lots of souvenirs, spices, special fruit drinks, etc. Because of the large increase in tourism, the market has moved to dry land - it's the tourists that come in boats! The best part of the morning was the boat ride through the network of narrow canals that are lined with old wooden houses and pots of colorful flowers. In these neighborhoods, visiting your neighbor "down the road" means getting into your boat parked next to your house.
Other than the floating markets, there is truly wonderful shopping in Bangkok: shopping malls, bazaars and night markets all selling beautiful textiles, handicrafts, antiques, clothing and food from around the world. According to our guide, Chakritt, you can actually find "great bargains" if you're adept at bargaining.
There really is a lot to do and see in Bangkok. I only touched on the touristy parts, but there is so much more to see - all you need is time.
We had a wonderful farewell dinner at the Mandarin Oriental's Riverside Terrace Restaurant. The cliché about time flying has a ring of truth. It was hard to believe we had been on the road for three weeks. Hong Kong was wonderful and we had a great time watching tourists and locals alike celebrating the Year of the Pig. Hanoi, with its chaotic traffic, European architecture and good food was a wonderful introduction to Vietnam. Ha Long Bay, with its spectacular seascape of limestone pillars; Hue with its many tombs and old Imperial City; Hoi An, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a distinct Chinese influence and great shopping; Saigon, with it's "millions" of motor scooters and the unforgettable visit to the Cu Che Tunnels; Cambodia and the magnificent temple complex at Angkor Wat; and finally Bangkok, a large, growing city with a royal heritage.
Even though tourism throughout Indochina is on the increase, it still has not been a focus for many Americans. There is so much to see and appreciate. I would like to think I have portrayed a different view of Indochina in my series on Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand. If you're looking for an exotic vacation, definitely consider a trip to Indochina.
Like most of the cities we visited on this trip, the changes could be measured by the prosperity of the country - better highways, cranes dotting the skyline for the ongoing building boom, and a growing infrastructure including hotels, restaurants and mass transportation, to accommodate the influx of tourists from around the world. In the case of Indochina, as the countries prospered, so did its citizens - better living conditions, education, cars, motor scooters; all are signs of prosperity.
Bangkok has it all. The telltale signs of prosperity: traffic congestion, road construction and building construction, plus a 100 percent increase in tourism over the past 10 years.
The following morning we set out for a day of sightseeing. Our first stop, the Grand Palace, is the city's most famous landmark. Built in 1782 as the home of the Thai king, it was the royal court and the administrative seat of government for more than 150 years. The kings stopped living in the palace in the early 1900s, but the palace complex is still used for ceremonial events.
Within the palace complex are several temples, including Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), which contains the small and greatly revered Emerald Buddha that dates back to the 14th century. The robes on the Buddha are changed with the seasons by the king of Thailand and is an important ritual in the Buddhist calendar.
Another "must see" within the palace complex is Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha). The largest temple in Bangkok, Wat Pho is most famous for its huge and very majestic reclining Buddha. Talk about making a statement - the Reclining Buddha measures 151 feet long and is covered in gold leaf.
A fitting end to our morning at the Grand Palace was a Thai massage. The traditional Thai massage is more invigorating than relaxing and is supposed to release stress and improve blood circulation. Personally, I prefer the Swedish massage, but it was fun going as a group and listening to the laughs and the moans as the masseuse applied "gentle" pressure in order to relieve muscle and joint tension.
No trip to Bangkok would be complete without a visit to a floating market. Much of Bangkok's history has evolved along the banks of the Chao Praya River. Winding its way through the heart of Bangkok, it continues to play an important part in the daily life of many Bangkok residents. People commute to work on fast-moving river taxis, tourists enjoy the more leisurely pace of sightseeing boats and commerce is ever present as long barges pull heavy loads up and down the river. Our hotel, the Mandarin Oriental (absolutely fabulous), was on the river's edge, which provided great views of all the activity on the river below from our rooms.
There are several floating markets in and around the Bangkok area. When I was in Bangkok 30 years ago the markets were used by the locals to buy fresh fruits and vegetables. Today, the floating markets are more of a tourist attraction, though they still provide an array of fresh fruits and vegetables along with clothing, handicrafts, lots of souvenirs, spices, special fruit drinks, etc. Because of the large increase in tourism, the market has moved to dry land - it's the tourists that come in boats! The best part of the morning was the boat ride through the network of narrow canals that are lined with old wooden houses and pots of colorful flowers. In these neighborhoods, visiting your neighbor "down the road" means getting into your boat parked next to your house.
Other than the floating markets, there is truly wonderful shopping in Bangkok: shopping malls, bazaars and night markets all selling beautiful textiles, handicrafts, antiques, clothing and food from around the world. According to our guide, Chakritt, you can actually find "great bargains" if you're adept at bargaining.
There really is a lot to do and see in Bangkok. I only touched on the touristy parts, but there is so much more to see - all you need is time.
We had a wonderful farewell dinner at the Mandarin Oriental's Riverside Terrace Restaurant. The cliché about time flying has a ring of truth. It was hard to believe we had been on the road for three weeks. Hong Kong was wonderful and we had a great time watching tourists and locals alike celebrating the Year of the Pig. Hanoi, with its chaotic traffic, European architecture and good food was a wonderful introduction to Vietnam. Ha Long Bay, with its spectacular seascape of limestone pillars; Hue with its many tombs and old Imperial City; Hoi An, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a distinct Chinese influence and great shopping; Saigon, with it's "millions" of motor scooters and the unforgettable visit to the Cu Che Tunnels; Cambodia and the magnificent temple complex at Angkor Wat; and finally Bangkok, a large, growing city with a royal heritage.
Even though tourism throughout Indochina is on the increase, it still has not been a focus for many Americans. There is so much to see and appreciate. I would like to think I have portrayed a different view of Indochina in my series on Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand. If you're looking for an exotic vacation, definitely consider a trip to Indochina.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
