Showing posts with label Greece. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Greece. Show all posts

ATHENS: Ancient City in Modern Times

Our Black Sea cruise was coming to an end. Cruising is a wonderful way to see new destinations; a taste of what a city, a country or even a culture is like. This was my first trip to Romania and the Ukraine and I already want to go back. I have to see Transylvania and the Caucasus Mountains, plus going back to Odessa and spending a few days mid-week would enable me to visit the museums I missed that were closed on Saturdays and maybe check on my roots.

We arrived into Athens in the early morning and it was a sad time as we said goodbye to our newly-made friends. Some of the group had decided to stay with us in Athens for a few days; others were going directly to the airport for their flights back to Los Angeles.
For Marjorie Handel and me it was déjà vu. When we first started our travels so many years ago, we spent weeks in Athens and the Greek Isles. We were looking forward to being back.

On the way to the hotel we took a short city tour and our guide pointed out several churches, museums, monuments and government buildings. Our first stop was Panathinaiko Stadium where the first modern Olympic Games took place in 1896.
As we drove into the city center you could hear the oohs and ahhs as we got our first glimpse of The Acropolis of Athens, sitting high on a hill overlooking the modern city of Athens.
We continued our city tour ending at Syntagma Square, the central hub of the city and our hotel, The Grande Bretagne.

Once we checked into the hotel everyone took off to see the city on foot. Most of us headed for the Plaka, one of Athens most famous, old neighborhoods filled with restaurants, souvenir shops, jewelry stores and nightclubs. The Plaka is open from early morning to late at night and is the center of Athens’s nightlife. Carolyn Groves, Bill and Marjorie Handel, Sally Lovers and Chuck Lovers take a break in one of the local restaurants.
My favorite food is Thai and I never tire of the foods in China, Vietnam, Cambodia or Thailand. One of Marjorie’s favorite foods is Greek--she was in heaven. We stopped in a small, local restaurant and started ordering. There were six of us and we wanted to taste everything: Greek salad, tzatziki (cucumbers and spiced yogurt), souvlaki (lamb skewers with vegetables), hummus and my favorite, spanakopita, a spinach pie baked in filo dough. It was wonderful.

In the evening we were back in the Plaka enjoying another delightful Greek meal and a floorshow. Tom Dobbertin, Glenn Salisbury and Bruce Harris joined the cast for some Greek dancing. It was a fun evening.
While most of the group stayed for two nights, Marjorie and I stayed for four nights. We said our goodbyes to Bill and the group and off we went. We stopped at the Parliament building across from our hotel and watched the changing of the guards.

They really have cute costumes and put on quite the show. I wonder if having “nice legs” are a criteria to be a guard!!!?
Next we walked to the Benaki Museum. Compared to other museums in Athens, the Benaki is small but features more of the art and culture of both ancient and modern Greece.

It is wonderfully organized--the bottom floor covers ancient Greece and each floor covers different periods of Greek history. On display are wonderful photographs, religious art, costumes and writings.

Next we headed for the National Archaeological Museum, the largest museum in Greece and considered one of the world’s great museums.
Originally it was established to secure all the finds from the 19th Century excavations in and around Athens. Through the years it became the central museum in Greece for archeological finds and now has more than 20,000 exhibits that provide a panorama of Greek civilization from the beginnings of prehistory to late antiquity.

Trying to see a museum of this magnitude is almost impossible without a guide, unless you have unlimited time and energy. Several members of our group, who had been on an in-depth tour the previous day, recommended their guide, Antonia, and she met Marjorie and me at the museum. Thank goodness for Antonia. She took us through the highlights of the museum including the Sculpture collection, which presents the development of Greek sculpture from large-scale sculpture (7th Century B.C.) to the late Roman period (4th Century A.D).

Since Marjorie and I were taking a day trip the following day to the Argolis region including Mycenae and Epidaurus, we were particularly interested in the Mycenaean collection. The objects in the collection come from the late Bronze Age and were found in graves and settlements that date from 1600 to 1100 B.C.
The masks that were found in Mycenae are wonderful. This is the mask of Agamemnon.

We spent several hours in the museum before heading up to The Acropolis.

This really brought back memories. Today many of the buildings are under renovation and you can no longer can walk in the Parthenon or other buildings. Like many historical sights around the world, you look from afar.

The Parthenon and other buildings on the Acropolis were built by Pericles in the 5th Century B.C.as a monument to the cultural and political achievements of the inhabitants of Athens.

The following morning we were up bright and early for our tour to Mycenae. Years ago Marjorie and I drove the same roads as we toured mainland Greece. We stopped in Corinth to see the famous Corinth Canal, which separates the Peloponnese from mainland Greece and connects the Gulf of Corinth with the Saronic Gulf.
The Corinth Canal, though only completed in the late 19th Century, was an idea and dream that dates back over 2000 thousand years.

We visited Mycenae and entered the “city” through the Lions Gate to the royal grave site where the masks (we saw in the Archeological Museum) were discovered. The ruins of Ancient Mycenae date back to the Second Millennium B.C. Though most of the original city state has been destroyed over time, parts of the Acropolis that overlooked a fertile plains still remain.

We continued on to Epidaurus, a healing center as well as a cultural center in ancient times.
Epidaurus was built around the 3rd Century B.C. and it is adorned with a multitude of buildings, most famous of which is the ancient Theater of Epidaurus.

The day was wonderful and brought back many memories. I do believe it was easier the last time we visited here; I don’t remember my knees rebelling quite as much as we hiked up to the ancient ruins!!!

We left early the following morning for our flight home. It had been an amazing trip. If you’re looking for a new travel destination I highly recommend a cruise to the Black Sea, and definitely an extended stay in Greece.

BLACK SEA ADVENTURE with Bill Handel: Istanbul


The Black Sea--the destination alone sounds ominous and a bit mysterious. Only recently has the area opened up to tourism and we were all very excited when Regent Seven Sea Cruises added the Black Sea to their cruise destinations. The itinerary is fabulous --Istanbul to Athens with stops in Turkey, Bulgaria, Romania, the Ukraine and Greece. I have been wanting to travel to the Ukraine for several years (my grandfather was from Odessa,) so when radio talk show host Bill Handel asked me to host a Black Sea Cruise in July, 2008, I was very excited. Marjorie Handel and I (Bill’s wife and my dearest friend) have been traveling together for many years (more than I’m willing say,) and this is one destination none of us had ever visited. Bill, Marjorie and I had been to Istanbul and Athens before, but the rest of the ports were all new for us.
For the next few weeks I’ll share our adventures as we shop for Turkish carpets in Istanbul (an adventure in itself with Bill Handel,) visit ancient Nessebur and learn more about Bulgarian village life, tour the site of the 1945 Yalta Conference where British prime minister Winston Churchill, US president Franklin Roosevelt and Soviet leader Josef Stalin met and decided the fate of postwar Europe, and climb up to the 6th century Sumela Monastery set high on the side of a mountain in Trabzon, Turkey.

Since 2005 (my last trip to Turkey), the increase in the number of women wearing head coverings (hijabis) or wearing full-length robes such as burkas or abayas, has increased dramatically. I questioned one of our male guides, who was wearing a short sleeve shirt in the 90-degree weather, and his answer was simple, “many of the younger generation are finding solace in their Muslim roots and choose to dress accordingly.” When I questioned him further he was very emphatic when telling me that no one was forcing the women to wear the head coverings, or even the burkas or abayas; that was their choice. He then shared with me that both his mother and sister wear hijabs, much to the dismay of his father.

Our Black Sea trip started in Istanbul. We arrived late in the afternoon and checked into the Four Seasons at Sultanahmet in the heart of the old city. Once a Turkish prison, the hotel is small (only 65 rooms) and is in a great location--around the corner from the Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace and a short walk to the Grand Bazaar (yea!!!) Marjorie and I couldn’t wait to get to the Grand Bazaar and see all the wonderful trinkets from gold and silver jewelry to carpets and leather goods. There is absolutely nothing like the Grand Bazaar; it’s actually a labyrinth of streets covered and lined with thousands of small shops.
The bazaar dates back to 1453 and many booths have been in families for generations. The bazaar has a sort of party atmosphere. Buying something takes patience, since haggling or bargaining is part of the game. Unfortunately, the Grand Bazaar closes early on Saturday and is closed on Sunday. Hard as it was, we contained ourselves and joined the group for some sightseeing.

What a fabulous city. It’s the only city in the world on two continents (Europe and Asia) and the mix of cultures gives the city a vibrant and mysterious aura that most tourists find both intriguing and exciting. Due to its strategic location on the Bosporus between the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara, Istanbul has always been a major commercial center. In ancient times it was part of the Silk Road trade route and stood at the crossroads between Europe and Asia. Today, it is Turkey’s largest city and still serves as the country’s financial and commercial center. From its varied past, Istanbul has an extraordinary collection of palaces, mosques and markets from every period in history. It also has major traffic jams and like most ancient cities, suffers from narrow streets not built for modern technology, air pollution and more and more high-rise buildings to house the ever-increasing population. It all comes together to make Istanbul one of the most unique and exciting cities I’ve visited anywhere in the world.
We started our sightseeing with a visit to Dolmabahce Palace, the official residence of several Ottoman Sultans in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
The palace was built on the shores of the Bosphorus in 1856, for the Ottoman Sultan, Abdulmecid I, and reflected strong Western influences that were beginning to have a presence in the Ottoman Empire. Today, Dolmabahce is a museum and features exquisite artifacts such as Heeke and Isparta carpets, porcelain vases, chandeliers of European crystal and a priceless collection of paintings.
Next on our list of “must see places” was Topkapi Palace. Built by the Ottoman Turk Mehmet II after his conquest of Constantinople in 1453, Topkapi was the administrative palace and home of the Ottoman Dynasty for over five centuries.

The palace is huge and incorporates a series of pavilions contained by four enormous courtyards. To see the entire complex would take a full day. If time is limited, the Treasury, featuring the 86-carat Spoonmaker’s diamond, a seven-pound emerald, the Topkapi dagger, a gift designed for the Shah of Persia in 1741, and a case containing the bones from the hand of John the Baptist is an absolute must. Other buildings to see are the Harem, a labyrinth of exquisite rooms where the sultan’s wives and concubines lived, the kitchen, with its display of fine Chinese porcelain and ceramics, and the arms rooms filled with weaponry from the Ottoman dynasty. An unusual highlight for us “westerners” is the religious Moslem Museum with a young man in a glassbooth continually chanting from the Koran. Among the artifacts here, are hairs, teeth, and articles of clothing ostensibly belonging to the Prophet Mohammed.

Hagia Sophia, the “Church of Holy Wisdom,” is a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture and considered by many to be the eighth wonder of the world. It is certainly among the world’s greatest architectural achievements. More than 1,400 years old, this immense building was built over two earlier churches and inaugurated by Emperor Justinian in 537 AD. In the 15th century the Ottomans converted it into a mosque.

Across from Hagia Sophia is the Mosque of Sultan Ahmet, better known as the Blue Mosque because of the more than 21,000 azure tiles that adorn the walls and ceiling. Built by Sultan Ahmet I in the early part of the 16th century, the Blue Mosque, with its six minarets, is one of the most recognized and famous religious buildings in the world.
In the area between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia is the Hippodrome, the scene of chariot races and political riots in Byzantine times and of horseback-riding games and archery contests during the Ottoman era. Today, it is a park and the only remains are three monumental obelisks, one dating back to 479 BC, and a fountain.

The Underground Cistern, only a short walk from the hotel near the Blue Mosque, is a massive cavern of beautiful arches and support columns built by the Romans in 532AD and used for centuries as the city’s main source of water storage.
After the conquest of the city by the Ottoman Turks, the cistern was forgotten and was only rediscovered in 1545. Today, it has a rather cool and mystical ambiance and you can stroll along the colonnades.

We spent the better part of three days exploring Istanbul. We visited the mosques and palaces, we walked along the cobbled streets lined with outdoor cafes, shops, peddlers selling pistachios and shiny brass shoeshine stalls. We were impressed by the vast number of carpet sellers enticing tourists into their shops in French, English, German and a dozen other languages. We visited the Spice Bazaar with its exotic aromas



and the Grand Bazaar where shopkeepers hawk their wares and enjoy “bargaining” over a cup of apple tea. We listened to the call of the Muezzin summoning the faithful to prayer five times daily and watched as the sun gave a spectacular show as it set over the Bosphorus. We loved Istanbul.
Join me next week as Bill and Marjorie Handel go carpet shopping and learn the ins and out of buying a Turkish carpet.
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