PORTUGAL #4: Cruising the River Douro

This is the fourth and last article on my trip to Portugal in October 2008.

We continued our trip through the Douro Valley stopping at towns and villages most of us never heard of. We stopped in Lemego,to visit the pilgrimage church of Santuario Nossa Senhora dos Remedios. Within the town, there is a magnificent baroque staircase with 14 Stations of the Cross that leads up to the 18th century church.Every year, at the beginning of September, thousands of pilgrims gather to seek healing and consolation. The church was beautiful and the altar really interesting, like stairs up to heaven.It must be a Portuguese custom since I have never seen that in churches in other parts of Europe--and I have been in lots of churches in Europe!

The small town of Pinhão is the epicenter of the Port wine making area, and a place where the soil and climatic conditions are considered to be at their very best. Located at the confluence of the Douro and Pinhão rivers, Pinhao is a mecca for wine lovers. We docked early in the morning and were off the ship by 9:00 am for a visit to the Wine Academy at the Vintage House Hotel. It was a great seminar and I’m becoming a real expert on port wines!!!Really off the beaten path was Castelo Rodrigo,a small village located on the top of Serra de Marofa that provided protection for the surrounding towns after the Romans arrived in the early part of the 13th century.

We walked around the fortress,and stopped at the church in the center of town before heading back to the ship for an afternoon of cruising.We docked in Vega de Terron and boarded a bus to cross the border into Spain for a visit to the university town of Salamanca. Since the European Union was created, there are no longer actual border crossings--you just drive from one country to another. Over the years I had been to Spain several times, since both my daughters, Heather and Erin, went to school in Spain. Salamanca is considered to have the purest form of Spanish spoken today and you can actually hear the slight difference in accent between Heather, who went to school in Sevilla, and Erin, who studied in Salamanca.Erin truly loved Salamanca and I can understand why. Salamanca, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offers a walk through Europe’s history of architecture. It has it all, Romanesque, Plateresque style, Renaissance, Gothic and baroque. The University of Salamanca is Spain’s oldest university and like many college towns, has a youthful vibrancy. We were in the middle of Plaza Mayor, when groups of students ran by in costume celebrating the beginning of the new semester.Like many European cities, the best way to see it is to walk around. We started our tour at the Plaza Mayor, the main square in town, and a great place to sit to people watch. The plaza is famous for its beautiful sandstone buildings and baroque-style architecture from the 18th century.

Next we headed toward the University and Casa de las Conchas, or ‘House of the Shells.” The house gets its name from the golden stone scallop shells that cover the walls.Today, the Casa de la Conchas is a modern library, but was once a Palace of Rodrigo Maldonado, a knight of the Santiago Order. We continued on to the university where the guide pointed to a very ornate facade that is a premier example of Plateresque architecture from the 15th and 16th centuries.

Our last stop on the tour was the New Cathedral, started in 1512 to help stabilize the deteriorating Old Cathedral.If you’re into architecture this is a must. It has a little of everything: Gothic, baroque and Renaissance touches can all be seen. Today, the New Cathedral is the only entrance to access the old Romanesque Cathedral Vieja, built in the 12th century.It was a fun afternoon and we all thoroughly enjoyed our tour of Salamanca.

Our trip was coming to an end. I was surprised that northern Portugal was not at all touristy. In fact, I didn’t do any souvenir shopping in Lisbon because I wanted to see the crafts offered in the towns along the Douro River. I never found any shops selling local crafts--and believe me we looked. The big draw in northern Portugal is Port wine.We cruised leisurely back to Porto enjoying the beautiful scenery along the river. In recent years several dams were built to prevent the valley from flooding and ruining the precious vineyards that terrace the entire Douro Valley.Portugal is a great tourist destination. Even though they use Euros, prices seem to be lower for meals and hotels than in other European countries. They have beautiful beaches, interesting cities, good food and great wine--all the essentials for a fun vacation.

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PORTUGAL #3: A Taste for Port Wine

We left Lisbon and headed north to the city of Porto where our ship, the Douro Queen, was waiting. I love when someone else is doing the driving--it’s a great way to see the countryside. Our guide, Pilar, was wonderful and gladly answered a multitude of questions on the political and economic situation in Portugal, as well as questions about health care schools, salaries, etc.

For lunch we stopped in Coimbra, a university town halfway between Lisbon and Porto. Coimbra is the home of Coimbra University, the oldest university in Portugal dating back to 1290.
After lunch we toured the university grounds and the Biblioteca Joanina, the jewel of the university. The library holds over 300,000 volumes, including some from the 12th century. Built in the 18th century, the library is a magnificent example of Baroque architecture and is definitely worth the stop.

We arrived into Porto in the late afternoon and were welcomed aboard the Douro Queen, our “home” for the next seven days. If you have ever been on a riverboat, you will understand when I say the rooms are well designed but quite compact. Unpacking proved to be somewhat of a challenge, but Carolyn (Groves) and I rose to the occasion and finally managed to find room for everything. After unpacking, it was definitely time to head down to the lounge for a welcome cocktail and orientation.Porto is Portugal’s second largest city, the city from which port wine derives its name. All the major vineyards have port houses here (Taylor, Graham, Fonseca, etc.), and can easily be spotted by their trademark red roofs, and the vintage signs on the sides of the warehouses. For hundreds of years, the vineyards throughout the Douro Valley have brought their wine to Porto to age in oak barrels before being bottled and sent to marketplaces around the world.We spent the night aboard ship in Porto and early the next morning crossed the bridge for a walking tour of the city. Located on the northern bank of the Douro River, just in from the coast of the Atlantic Ocean, Porto has always been a city of commerce and trade.
The town actually dates back to Roman times (5th century), but like many European cities, there has been a constant battle for dominance and the architecture of the city is predominately Moorish, with a little Gothic and baroque thrown in over the centuries.

We spent the morning walking around the city and found some really cute stores, as well as the local marketplace with wonderful displays of fruits and vegetables. Thanks to Carolyn Groves, we had fruit to spare!We visited the main cathedral, but my favorite church was the Old Carvalhido Church in downtown Porto. The tile work on the front is magnificent.
No trip to Porto would be complete without port tasting. Prior to the trip I knew very little about port wines, except they were too sweet for my taste. After a tour of the warehouse, a tutorial on the different varieties of port wines and then tasting some different types, I discovered a whole new world of wines. Joe and Nancy Mandelbaum agreed.Port wine is a Portuguese fortified wine from the Duoro Valley in the northern provinces of Portugal. It is typically a sweet red wine, but also comes in dry, semi-dry and white varieties. It is most often served as a dessert wine, but the white port is served chilled as an aperitif. Wines in the style of port are produced around the world in several countries---most notably Australia, South Africa, Canada, India, Argentina and the United States. But under the European Union guidelines, only the port wine from Portugal may be legally labeled as Port.

Our first day of sailing. Most of us were on deck as we left Porto, passing under bridges, through locks, by small picturesque villages right out of a tourist brochure.
As we continued upstream it was obvious we were in wine country--port wine country with stone terraces generations old that give the vines a sheltered hold on the steep rocks. It’s an amazing sight, so different from the wine regions in California.
In the early afternoon we docked in Regua, the center for port wine in the upper Douro Valley. The excursion for the day was a visit to the Mateus Palace and Gardens--the same Mateus as in Mateus Rose. The palace became famous worldwide for being featured on the label of Mateus Rose wine.

Built in 1745, the palace is a wonderful example of baroque architecture with an “impressive façade made up of beautiful pinnacles on the roof and an ornate balustraded stairway,” all reflected off the pond in front. Behind the palace is a delightful garden with box hedges, statues and lovely topiary work.We returned to the ship in time for cocktails and dinner. It had been a wonderful relaxing day along the Douro River. Join me next week as we continue upstream toward Salamanca, Spain.

PORTUGAL #2: Sintra, A Medieval Town in a Romantic Setting

This is the second article on my trip to Portugal this past October.

After spending two days in Lisbon we took a tour outside the city to see the surrounding countryside and visit the towns of Sintra and Cascais and drive along the Estoril coastline.Sintra is a small town that dates back to medieval times, but has a sound footing in the 21st. century. Narrow streets lined with small boutiques, gift shops and outdoor cafes add to the allure along with wonderful palaces and castles that give the town a fairy tale-like feeling.In the center of town, in the main square, is the National Palace, dating from the 14th century. Its two gigantic conical chimneys are the town's most recognizable landmarks.
Originally built under Moorish rule for sultans spending summers in the temperate climate surrounding Sintra, the palace has been remodeled and altered by successive residents. Though predominantly Manueline and Gothic in architecture, the original Arab style still prevails in some parts of the building. Inside, the labyrinth of rooms are unique and possess what is said to be the most extensive collection of Mudejar Azulejos (colored glazed tiles) in the world.

But the most famous building in Sintra is Pena Palace, an extravagant yet relatively modern building, erected in the 19th century in accordance with the whims and romantic fantasies of Ferdinand de Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, the German husband of the then Queen Maria II.A true mixture of styles (Renaissance, Baroque, Moorish, Gothic and Manueline) adorn this enormous construction which occupies the site of a 16th century Hieronymite monastery, proudly sitting atop the hill with a wonderful panorama of Sintra, the valley below and the Atlantic Ocean.

The outside looks like a castle in Disneyland with its pink and yellow towers and domes, drawbridges, sculptures and detail that one can only imagine exist in fantasy.Inside has been kept very much as it was left by its last royal occupant, Queen Amélia, who, fearing the inevitable downfall of the monarchy in Portugal, fled the palace and the country in 1910.

We took a tram to the top and walked around the outside in utter amazement. We couldn’t wait to see the inside. The extravagant interior is decorated in late Victorian and Edwardian furnishings, rich ornaments, paintings, and priceless porcelain preserved just as the royal family left them.

Surrounding the palace is the mystical Pena Park, filled with a variety of trees and exotic plants from the former colonies of the Portuguese empire, ponds, fountains, and black swans. There is also a charming lodge hidden among the trees that can be visited. Pena Palace is unbelievable and not to be missed if you’re traveling to Portugal.

We drove from Sintra to the seaside resort of Cascais. A former fishing village, Cascais gained fame as a resort for Portugal's royal family in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. Nowadays it is a popular vacation spot for both Portuguese and foreign tourists.The town is a typical resort area with lots of hotels, tourist apartments, restaurants and shops.We found a cute outdoor cafe for lunch and enjoyed a wonderful assortment of fresh shellfish along with a great bottle of wine.We drove back to Lisbon along the Estoril coast with its beautiful white, sandy beaches and the beautiful blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean. We made several stops along the way as our guide pointed out Cabo da Roca, Europe’s Western most point and the Estoril Casino and Gardens, the largest casino in Europe (according to our guide). It had been a most enjoyable day.

Join me next week as we leave Lisbon for Porto (Oporto), home of some of the finest Port wine houses in all of Europe, and where we board our small ship as it makes its way north along the River Douro through the magnificent wine growing region of Northern Portugal.

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PORTUGAL #1: The Charm of Portugal

It has been many years since I visited Portugal and the charm of the country had left an indelible impression on me. With all my other travels, I never managed to find time to go back, until this past October when Uniworld, a company specializing in river cruising, offered a cruise through the Douro Valley in northern Portugal, from Porto to Salamanca in Spain. It was perfect, my last trip I spent most of my time in the Algarve, the beautiful beach area of southern Portugal.

I flew nonstop from Newark, New Jersey (I had to see my new granddaughter who lives in Pissaic Park, New Jersey,) into Lisbon and met my friends Carolyn Groves and Jerry and Debbie Baker, who had flown in from Los Angeles. The rest of the group was not arriving for a few days and the extra days gave me an opportunity to reacquaint myself with the city. The cobblestone streets and old neighborhoods are still there, along with new high-rise buildings and major shopping centers. Lisbon is growing and becoming a modern metropolis. Built on seven hills, along the sloping banks of the Tagas River, Lisbon has a special feel all it’s own.

The capital of Portugal since its conquest from the Moors in 1147, Lisbon is a legendary city with over 20 centuries of history. At one point, it was one of the most important capitals in the world, when the Portuguese owned the seas, circumnavigating the globe and opening the world up to trade.

Once the group arrived we were off at a hectic pace. We started our morning in the historic district of Belem. Our first stop, Belem Tower, a fortress built in the 16th century to keep careful watch over the great navigators who left Portugal to seek their fortunes elsewhere.
Close by the Tower is the Monument of the Discovers, built in honor of Henry the Navigator, considered a primary pioneer of the exploration of the oceans. Next on our itinerary was The Royal Coach Museum, but we got waylaid by the delicious smell of Portuguese pastries from a cafe across the street.

One of the typical pastries from Portugal is the Pastel de Nata, a custard cup with a crisp, golden topping. It was wonderful and definitely worth the stop.We walked across to the museum, housed in the old Horse Riding Arena of the Balem Palace. Created in 1905 by Queen Amelia, the museum houses an extensive collection of carriages belonging to the Portuguese Royal Family and nobility.
It was interesting to see the development of carriages from the 16th century through the 19th century. The changes, particularly in comfort, were dramatic.

Continuing our exploration of the Belem district, our next stop was the Monastery of Jeronimos (also known as the Hieryonimites’ Monastery), a masterpiece of Manueline architecture and, along with the Tower of Belem, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Built during the 16th century, the Monastery is beautifully decorated with sculptures, Gothic scroll work and intricate designs.Our stomachs were telling us it was lunchtime, but Pilar, our guide, insisted we take a stroll through the Alfama district, the oldest district in Lisbon. Walking through this Moorish neighborhood is definitely a step back in time. It is actually a village within a city made up of narrow streets, tiny squares, small mom and pop shops, churches, and whitewashed houses with wrought-iron balconies adorned with pots of flowers, drying laundry, and caged birds. Picturesque is the best way to describe Alfama. I’m glad we didn’t miss it.
Our last stop of the day was the Rossio, the liveliest square in the city, where people stop to sit and relax, have a drink or lunch at one of the many outdoor cafes surrounding the square. And that’s exactly what we did.We had lunch at the Café Nicola and did some serious people watching. The square is full of entertainers and people wanting to be noticed. I can see why it’s called the liveliest square in Lisbon. It was a fun but exhausting day --- it’s hard playing tourist!

The day wasn’t over yet. Part of the fun of traveling is eating the local cuisine and trying new foods. If you enjoy seafood, Portugal is the place for you. Fish is served every which way--grilled, boiled,poached, fried, stewed and roasted.Restaurants in Lisbon abound from the traditional Portuguese cuisine to international fare, from the very high-end to the small, family run restaurants. Almost all the restaurants we selected were a la carte; you are charged per dish. Also, when they serve the bread, and special cheeses, it is not part of the meal, you are charged.

The happening place in Lisbon is Barrio Alto, for both locals and tourists. Behind colorful and graffiti-ridden facades, off alleyways and cobblestone lanes, are a variety of excellent traditional and international restaurants, bars and nightclubs.
Another fun area to go for dinner is the Alcantara, the principle pier of Lisbon, with an abundance of restaurants (mostly seafood), bars, discos and pubs. We were there on a weeknight and I was amazed at the crowds. It’s definitely a popular place.

Lisbon was fun--a great city to walk and explore. Three days was not enough to see and do everything I had originally planned. I guess that makes for a good reason to go back.

Join me next week as we leave the city for a day trip to Sintra, Cascais and Estoril.